Here's a few pics of my K40.
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My K40
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Every time I see one of these kinds of threads I absolutely love the shiny look all over again. And I've read all about how to get the look, etc.; but then when I actually start to seriously think about doing it myself ... I chicken out. Anyway, it looks great ... it really does.
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RevRay,
The Kahr is easy. Take it apart (extractor). Get two sheets of gray, metal sanding paper, 600/800 grit. Take a nice big stanley level to use a guide and put a run of duct tape on the side, no metal to metal contact.
You will be using the level as a guide. Tape down (on the sides) the 600 grit on to a flat surface. Slip a piece of paper under the sandpaper. With the slide laying flat on the paper, use the level as a guide and draw the slide down the paper to keep the scratch marks straight.
Once you get enough of the matte finish off, transfer to 800 grit and repeat.
At the end, I use a piece of used 1000 grit and had draw it on the finish to polish it.USN ~ Retired
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that is one cool way to do it. some thought put into that also. I suggest allwho want this done send their slides to Flieger and let the master do it RIGHT. Just sayin. My PM9 has over 34,000+ rounds through it, and runs much better than an illegal trying to get across our border
NRA BENEFACTOR MEMBER
MAY GOD BLESS MUGGSY
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Many manufacturers use the bead blast finish to disguise/eliminate the need for final level of milling marks in their metal. When you try to polish their guns, you end up only exposing the very crappy final detail work.
I have never had that happen with a Kahr. Their finish seems to be just a finish. Their milling marks all seem to be flattened before the bead blast matte finish. There may be exceptions, but I haven't found them ... and I do polish my stuff pretty often. This makes polishing a Kahr a pretty full proof experience and usually with great success.
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Yeh, now if I can get Kahr to fix it, I'd be happy. Hell, if they ever call me back, they can sell me the parts half off and I'll fix it myself.
http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=21620USN ~ Retired
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To rev ray: I don't know if you've done the polish job yet but if you haven't don't be afraid. If you're apprehensive practice on something else that you want to make shiny, like a blade or a tool. Like someone else said, you just need to go in straight lines. Take your time, pay attention to what you're doing and it will turn out fine.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
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The original K40 is fixed. The smallest amount of wiggle still exists, but you can barely notice it.
I replaced the slide stop and it fixed it immediately. After about 200 rounds of plinking, it loosened up a bit, but I did exchange my 20lbs recoil spring for a 22lbs. It works great.
Now for the real insanity. I bought a second K40. It was NIB for $495.
I just couldn't say no.
I feel more comfortable carrying my MK40 now that it's warm out, but there's no denying I really prefer the K40.
I've been running 165 grain Golden Sabers through both and Speer Lawman for practice.USN ~ Retired
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