Proper prep of a new kahr

[mlavelle3]

thanks jocko and everyone else

New CW45 went through the prep. cycled 300 times. locked it open over night. I tooked it to the range and put 50 estate rds through it. alternating with a 7 round wilson combat knock-off i got on ebay. 0 problems. 1ST shot from 12 yards, 5 inches off the red. could'nt believe it. my first .45 ... i'm a big fan now. easy recoil/very loud. thanks to everyone's advice. Mike

[JFootin]

Welcome to the forum, Mike! Another successful result from using the Proper Prep thread! Cudos to Jocko!

[j8048188]

I'm new to the forum and just got a new cm9, and plan on taking it to the range today. I've disassembled, cleaned, and lubed it. I'm not sure if the slide lock spring and lever are going together correctly. Is the spring supposed to be above or below the lip? Is there a good way to check that it's interfacing correctly?

Thanks!

[wyntrout]

Welcome to the forum!

Watch the take down video. The manual covers it as well, but the video really shows it well, starting around 4:30 into the video:

Impatient? Watch one of these videos FIRST! These videos can point out possible problem areas and emphasize correct procedures!
Take down and re-assembly videos:
T, TP, CW, P, & PM/CM Series:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=G2cZgVg_SwA

Frequently asked questions: http://www.kahr.com/faq.asp?

There are many helpful members here most of the time who might be able to help you, but as anywhere, there are many opinions and not all are correct. Be mindful of this before doing anything drastic to modify your pistol!

Wynn

[jocko]

if u look at that slide lock lever, that lip asu call it has a small groove in it. that is where that spring tip should lie, so it will be above not below. That springs job is to keep the lever down at all times and the only time it should go up is when the magazine follower on the last round actually engages that little lip/nubb and pushes up the slide lock.. I also put a dab of grease on that little nub to let that spring ride over that little lip nicer, and also on the left side of that little springhy where the slide lock pin engages it when re installing it.that little springhy also does anutter thing by design and that is to keep that slide stop lever from backin out to. U should hear a slight snap when u push that slide stop in correctly to.

welcome to a good forum. Hopefully u have visited 3 good stickys

wyns' new member information

Kahr lube chart

Propper prepping of ur kahr

learn all u can before going out that first time.

[wyntrout]

For things to work correctly, your slide lock spring must look like this... not bent in any way. It can be damaged on either side and affect proper operation of the pistol. of course, the coloring is added for emphasis, courtesy of Greg, gb6491.



Wynn

[CJCM9]

I did a through cleaning as described above and headed to the range. I ran multiple brands of FMJ thru it without an issue till round 220, FTF.

When I re-cleaned and reassembled the gun, CM9, I noticed that the firing pin was sticking out. When I touched it with my finger it popped back in. I disassembled the gun just to check things, everything looked right.

Is this something to worry about?
Did I do something wrong when re-assembling the gun?

[yqtszhj]

nothing to worry about at all. Mine does that too sometimes. You can be confident though that when it needs to be in, it will be in, and when you pull the trigger it will strike the primer and go boom.

[CJCM9]

nothing to worry about at all. Mine does that too sometimes. You can be confident though that when it needs to be in, it will be in, and when you pull the trigger it will strike the primer and go boom.

Looking thru the manual again, I'm wondering if the "striker block" was bumped while cleaning. After cleaning I'll make sure I check the "safety devices" per the manual.

[jocko]

that is normal

I did a through cleaning as described above and headed to the range. I ran multiple brands of FMJ thru it without an issue till round 220, FTF.

When I re-cleaned and reassembled the gun, CM9, I noticed that the firing pin was sticking out. When I touched it with my finger it popped back in. I disassembled the gun just to check things, everything looked right.

Is this something to worry about?
Did I do something wrong when re-assembling the gun?

it is an enertia firing pin and when the slide cycles, the striker will be then held back by the cocking cam but until then it will look like ur describing.

Just shoot the fokker like u stole it.

[kahrinca]

I find the manual and official Kahr videos very helpful... I can't tell you how many regular people who've done videos on YouTube with the Kahrs don't know how to properly field strip or know about aligning the index marks, or know anything about the slide stop spring, testing of the firing pin safety, etc. This results in some difficulty for them.

It really helps to read the manual with any firearm; applicances also. IMO, most problems are due to people not following manufacturer's instructions.

And most who do reviews seem to think that it is okay to use the 'sling-shot' method of cycling the first round. They obviously have not read the manual. Suggest that you follow the manual and if you are going to use the sling-shot method do not do so until gun is well broken it, if at all.

Enjoy your new Kahr! It's true that it gets better the more rounds you fire through it.

[CJCM9]

The firing pin stays out after the trigger is pulled. When you rack the slide it resets the striker and if you walk the slide (just for a visual check), you can see the tip of the firing pin reset (pop back in) when the slide is closing.

An email to Kahr confirms that this is how the firearm is designed since the firing pin is free floating.

[CB3]

The striker stays out after the trigger is pulled. When you rack the slide it resets the striker and if you walk the slide (just for a visual check), you can see the tip of the striker reset (pop back in) when the slide is closing.

An email to Kahr confirms that this is how the firearm is designed.

In checking my P40, when slowly operating the slide on an unloaded pistol with no mag, the firing pin (not the striker) does indeed protrude during rearward and forward travel until the slide is 3/4 closed when it is mechanically stopped from its forward travel ("retracted") as the slide continues into battery.

However, the firing pin is not being held forward as the slide retracts; it is free floating. It is pushed forward by a hit from the striker, but it has no mechanical means of being retracted. It only remains forward until pushed back into its channel which is very easy to do. There is no resistance if the channel is clean.

The fast rearward travel of the slide in recoil causes the FP to retract as the striker is cocked, and if not, the rim of the round rising out of the magazine will push it back in.

The FP will be back in its channel, not exposed, if you insert an empty mag into an unloaded gun with a closed slide. Dry fire and rack it hard. The slide will stay locked back and the FP will not be protruding. The same thing will happen without the mag inserted if you rack hard and hold the slide fully rearward.

So, to be clear, the gun is not designed to have the FP remain protruding during slide cycling. It is designed so the free floating FP will retract and not interfere with loading the next round. In the artificial circumstance of pulling the trigger and slowly hand cycling the slide, it will stay in its forward position of travel until some force is exerted to get it back into the channel behind the breech face. The FP is never mechanically held in a protruding position unless something is wrong. The fact that there is a mechanical means to retract the striker if it is stuck forward just before the slide goes into battery is a safety plus.

[CraigBos]

Thanks for this. Worked like a charm on a new CW9!

[Fishng]

Proper prep of a new kahr

Some feedback on the suggestions for breaking in your Kahr.
Recently purchased a PM 9. Already own a PM40 and a P 380.
In breaking all three guns, I have followed the suggestions on this forum.
Cycle the action 200 times prior to firing.
Clean and oil the handgun according to the published directions, prior to the first range session.
Fire 200 rounds through the handgun.
I am posting this because I still read complaints about Kahr's jamming.
On the 40 and 380 I polished the feed ramp.
My new PM9 came from the factory with a mirror finish on the feed ramp. Did nothing to it.
On my new PM 9, 300 rounds. Not a single malfunction. Ball ammo and Hornady and Corbon ammo.
On the PM 40, 700 plus rounds. Not a single malfunction, again, same type of ammo.
The P380 I took to a friend's ranch during the break in, might as well let friends enjoy shooting and let me break in the handgun.
When older teenage girls fired the gun, it would occasionally fail to feed the next round. Telling the boys firing to hold the gun tight, prevented any malfunctions. I suspect the girls did not have enough grip pressure on the gun.
When I took it to the range with ball ammo, I did not have any failures to feed.
I now have an additional 200 rounds through the little pistol.
I tried some +P loads in it. The gun did not like the hot loads, I would get one failure to feed per magazine.
Went back to regular loads, no problems.
One man's opinion....
I carry daily. I also own Glocks.
I prefer carrying the Kahr's, easier to conceal, much lighter to carry, easier on your hip at the end of the day.
Yes, I do prefer shooting the Glocks, Heavier, like the trigger better.
As far as reliability and trust in a critical situation, I would use either the Glock or the Kahr.
But for carry, it's tough to beat my Kahr's....



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