Low profile Slide Stop - P380

[SICARIO]

Good point but I think the part that actually catches the slide is on the inside. The radiused part in the picture is just the lever, pretty much cosmetic. I'd have to look closer but that's the way mine looks.

Sicario, if you was to make me one like the picture for my PM45 I'd probably only be 7 or 8 light years behind you and alot closer to Jocko and I think he'd be really really jealous. What do ya say, wanna help me out?

Let me ruin, I mean modify my slide stop first, then I'll be happy to work on yours. I've got quite a few hours logged on my Dremel mostly working on AK's and Saiga's, so I'm hoping it goes well.

[SICARIO]

duplicate

[SICARIO]

duplicate

[Internet Blohard]

Nice work

Here's a "before and after" of one I did:

Regards,
Greg

Very nice work Greg.

[gb6491]

thanks to all for your comments; very much appreciated

nice job gb! what was your process?

Thanks. I use my Dremel for much of the material removal being careful not to linger in one place too long. I follow up with files and stones, then sandpaper. I glass bead it afterward.

SICARIO,
I like your plan!
I just wonder if there is enough material in the stops to accomplish it?
Here's a shot of the bottoms of two slide stops (the top one is my modified one {P45 part}; the lower is unmodified {CW45 part}):

Regards,
Greg

[Bawanna]

Yup, I remember now, that little hollow area on the bottom limits how much you can take off the lower rear corner. Could follow the same concept drawing and keep the lower area flat and angle up to the upper rear, just not quite as pronounced.
I was thinking this would be a milling machine project which of course is way over my head but a dremel some files, stones and paper and a bad attitude could make this happen. I might give a second modification a try if you fellas promise not to label me a low down mangy copy cat.
I gotta quit hangin with you guys, I'm thinking of doing the copper & black polish job on my PM45 this weekend. Darn tough act to follow though. His turned out so gosh darn perfect, anything less would be well less.

[jocko]

U certainly did it right, ..

[SICARIO]

thanks to all for your comments; very much appreciated

Thanks. I use my Dremel for much of the material removal being careful not to linger in one place too long. I follow up with files and stones, then sandpaper. I glass bead it afterward.

SICARIO,
I like your plan!
I just wonder if there is enough material in the stops to accomplish it?
Here's a shot of the bottoms of two slide stops (the top one is my modified one {P45 part}; the lower is unmodified {CW45 part}):

Regards,
Greg

You're right. Definitely limited on material removal. That's what I get from drawing up the concept from a picture instead of the real thing. I get my p380 this saturday, then I'll be able to come up with something more accurate. Thanks for the post

[Pender1]

Yup, I remember now, that little hollow area on the bottom limits how much you can take off the lower rear corner. Could follow the same concept drawing and keep the lower area flat and angle up to the upper rear, just not quite as pronounced...

Well couldn't you safely grind the bottom of the back down until it's smooth? Just far enough to eliminate the serrations and then angle up from there. Basically sicario's original plan just with the back still being a little elevated compared to the flat part in the middle, maybe slope up to it somehow.

[Bawanna]

I cant see what that little hollow area does, might just be weight reduction or material savings. Guy might be able to weld it up and reshape to your hearts content. Have a spare one on hand in case it don't pan out.
There's enough material to remove the serrations so you might pull off the same plan just not so pronounced.

[Pender1]

I need to stop reading these threads, you guys have me wanting to spend money on a new slide stop and try this. I'm too broke for this crap.

[SICARIO]

I cant see what that little hollow area does, might just be weight reduction or material savings. Guy might be able to weld it up and reshape to your hearts content. Have a spare one on hand in case it don't pan out.
There's enough material to remove the serrations so you might pull off the same plan just not so pronounced.

Any idea what kind of material the slide stop is? I have a tig welder at work that could fill in that void (assuming there's no use for it).

[Bawanna]

I've heard that the CW's are MIM. I assumed the PM's were stainless steel but I'm not really a metal guy (I stick to sawdust) so I can't really say.

[jocko]

cw series are MIM. All others are forged steel, machined accordingly. Another reason why IMO sometimes forged/machined slide stops are out of spec compared to an MIM PART which seems to produce the same all the time, although if an MIM part is out of spec that mold is out of spec ....

Neither will break on your kahr, Not sure I would want to put any heat or weld to either part. We might be wanting to do to this little part more than it is designed for. Most of the contoured slide stops done on this forum seem plenty good enough, why push the envelope??

[Bawanna]

Probably wise advise indeed. I'm always skeptical of putting heat to any gun other than a little warm up for blueing etc.
Well enough has a nice ring to it. Sort of lacks a sense of adventure but in this particular situation maybe best that way.