Help with trigger pin removal!

[zombie]

I have a Kahr K9 with the NYPD trigger. I'm very curious about the Elite trigger setup and would like to decide for myself which I like better. I've tried whacking out the trigger pin with a punch and hammer, it hasn't budged at all. Would it be easier to use a 1/2 ton or 1 ton arbor press to get the job done?

Also is it just the trigger, trigger bar and springs I need to switch out or are more parts involved?

I'd like to do it all myself if possible so I can change things back if it ends up I prefer the NYPD trigger after all

Thanks for any help!

[kpm9]

Assuming you are going from left to right?

Also, if you have a newer K9, you have an elite trigger. Are you sure it's not?

[wyntrout]

I had to rig a device to get my pin pushed in far enough when it started backing out in my PM45. I used a brass pin... the "primer" from a snap cap, a bit of 3M tape to hold it on one side of some Channel Lock pliers, and a safe backing on the other jaw of the pliers. I actually seated mine a tad deeper than stock, right to left to install.

I tapped the retention pin in a bit and used some penetrating Permatex Green on the trigger pivot pin. It has stayed in place since.

You could make up something like I did to remove the pin... from left to right. I'm not sure you have to do the same thing with the K9, though. A brass punch of the proper diameter is what you probably need for the all-metal K9. Its pin is just a retention pin, I believe.

Wynn

[zombie]

kpm9: Yes it's definitely the NYPD trigger as described from the label on the box

wyntrout: you just gave some creative ideas involving my car jack

[wyntrout]

I've got a couple of vises that I try to use for delicate work sometimes, but a car jack... hmmm. I guess you might be able to do something with a small hydraulic jack, but the anchor or opposing mount might be hard to fabricate... hmmm... wood... 2x4's?? That might limit using too much force, which can be good. Too much of anything is too much, though Alan Jackson said (sang) that Too much of a Good Thing... is a Good Thing.

Wynn

[kb2wji]

In the spirit of halloween, lets bring a dead thread back to life !

I picked up a spring replacement "kit" from Kahr for my K9. I've got everything installed except for the little wavy bar thingy. I cannot for the life of me get that trigger pin removed. I've even tried a brass punch / hammer...but it wont budge. I can see how making a "press" of sorts would help the re-installation, but I cant get it outta there for the life of me. Help? Moral support? Shoulders to cry on? Anyone?

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

I punched mine out with a properly sized steel punch and a hammer. A good whack with the hammer and it started out just fine. I have a trick for reinstalling the trigger should you need it - steve

[kb2wji]

I tried that. I'm afraid of damaging the frame! I was slamming that sucker with a brass punch and hammer. Maybe i'll switch to the 3lb sledge.

Whats the trick to re-install? (Assuming I ever get the darn thing out)

[RRP]

~~~ Would it be easier to use a 1/2 ton or 1 ton arbor press to get the job done?

I don't have an arbor press in my shop. But for light work, like this, I use my drill press.

Mount your pin punch in the chuck, adjust the table to the right height, and rest the part on a block of wood aligned with a hole to allow for pin travel. With the power off, apply downward pressure slowly and evenly. It's a very controlled process, much less likely to cause damage than using a hammer, and it can be done with a common tool many of us have in our home shops.

One note of caution. If you have a flimsy drill press, it may be best to shore-up the table before applying pressure. They're not built to be used as presses, but with reasonable care, will tolerate the abuse.

One last tip. Sometimes it takes a little lubrication to get the job done.

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

To re-install, push the trigger pin into the right side so it slightly enters inside the frame. Install the trigger and hang it on the pin stub, the push the pin in a little more to get it fully into the right side of the trigger pinhole, but not extending into the hollow center of the trigger. Install the trigger bar, and then using tape, tape the trigger bar to the frame to keep it from moving around. If it's a steel gun, tape the head of the cocking cam pin also to keep it from falling out. Now back to the trigger, using a pair of tweezers, drop the trigger spacer and spring into the trigger cut out. I put the bent end of the spring down. Also, be sure the spacer has the cut side down. Now using a smaller pin punch or even a small diameter drill bit, come in from the left side and push the pin through the frame/trigger/spacer till you come up against the trigger pin. Using a small screwdriver or even a small file, place the tool into the rear part of the trigger area and pry forward against the trigger spring. as you do this, tap on the trigger pin. Once you get the trigger pin started through the spacer, use the pin on the left side to help keep things centered and drive the trigger pin home.
It took me about 3 hours searching for shortcuts to do this job the first time I did it. I came up with this system, and now It's just a couple minutes to do a trigger swap. HTH, Steve