Black Magazines for the PM series

[TucsonMTB]

All the Kahr magazines are stainless, and I like that. But, if you prefer black . . .



Caswell Plating offers a black oxide gel kit for stainless (about $20 plus shipping) that gives good results on Kahr magazines. Their page takes a while to load, but check out the video on the Black Oxide page. The results above are the more metallic finish the narrator describes as being possible by rubbing with steel wool during the treatment. I did not use any of their sealer since a little gun oil on the outside of the magazine works just fine and is going to be applied anyway.

The picture above is my DLC PM40 with one of the magazines I blackened along with an untreated magazine to illustrate the color change. The finish has proven very durable so far. Caswell Plating offers a wide range of products, including a black chrome plating kit. I bought the gel kit because it was the least expensive and because I can touch up any places the DLC coating on my PM40 wears through to the stainless underneath.

[Tilos]

Nice...thanks for posting

Tilos

[Ol'coot]

The mag looks great, I have wanted to find a method of blacking my mags to more match my Blacken PM9. Thank a bunch I just ordered the gel kit

[TucsonMTB]

The mag look great, I have want to find a method of blacking my mags to more match my Blacken PM9. Thank a bunch I just ordered the gel kit

My pleasure! In the video, the gentlemen narrating stresses cleaning to get an even finish. Believe him.

Rubbing with steel wool during the blackening process really improves the evenness for me and gave them a nice metallic appearance, rather than the dull finish I thought I wanted. My attempts at a dull finish were all somewhat blotchy.

Like some cold blue processes, the gun oil you use to "develop" the final finish after the chemical treatment seems to make a difference in the darkness of the final color. Weapon Shield did not work as well as M-Pro 7 Gun Oil LPX for me. Come to think of it, I may have to try their included sealer for this part of the process.

I look forward to hearing about your experience in a couple of weeks when you finally get your kit. For impatient folks like me, their nearly week long order processing and relatively slow UPS shipping was a nail biter. Yeah, I am trying to learn patience but my wife says I am already very "trying".

[Ol'coot]

Does the video come with the kit or do I need to download from the website?

[TucsonMTB]

It's that little tiny video window on this page: http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/black.htm

They seem to sprinkle the instructions for all their products on the pages where they describe. Brilliant, in my opinion.

[Ol'coot]

Thanks I had seen and watched this one but thought it was only for the Black Oxide for steel not the for stainless kit

[TucsonMTB]

There is also a customer service area. Here is the link to the water break test for cleaning. http://support.caswellplating.com/in...ter-break-test

Which includes a link to this video http://www.caswellplating.com/movies/waterbreak.mov

[Ol'coot]

If you don't mind a few more questions , exactly what was you cleaning process? What did you use as a cleaner? I have read on their forum many people not getting the results you seem to have achieved so I want to be sure to do the same steps to clean and prepare the mag for blackening step that you used. I still did not find detail instructions on their site. I was expecting to find a step by step direction for this product.

[TucsonMTB]

If you don't mind a few more questions , exactly what was you cleaning process? What did you use as a cleaner? I have read on their forum many people not getting the results you seem to have achieved so I want to be sure to do the same steps to clean and prepare the mag for blackening step that you used. I still did not find detail instructions on their site. I was expecting to find a step by step direction for this product.

My pleasure!

I did not buy their manual, but they do offer one at this link. http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/complete.htm It doesn't help that they charge for the manual.

Instead, I did what I usually do, just charged ahead with a little experimentation.

1. Sprayed the metal parts with brake cleaner (like we use to clean out the striker channel) which happened to CRC brand, because it was there.

2. Wiped down with paper towels and took them back into the kitchen. It was hot in the garage. Imagine that. July in Tucson.

3. Used a Q-Tip to apply the Stainless Steel Blackener Gel, pushed it around a bit and rinsed well.

4. Even after applying gun oil, the results were a bit blotchy, so I read everything I could find on the site and noticed the comment about steel wool.

5. Out to the garage for another brake cleaner bath and wipe down.

6. Found a package of ordinary steel wool, medium coarse #2, and pulled of a small ball.

7. Back in the kitchen I dipped the steel wool into the gel and used it to apply and scrub the gel into the surface of the magazine tube and other parts. The change to a metallic sheen was immediate, so I knew we had a winner.

8. Continued scrubbing with the gel on steel wool, adding a bit of water to the surfaces and scrubbing until everything looked even.

9. Followed with a water rinse, being careful not to blacken the kitchen sink.

10. After paper towel drying, took the parts back to the garage to experiment with oils noting the difference between Weapon Shield (OK) and M-Pro 7 Gun Oil LPX (Better!) mentioned in my earlier comments.

Edited to add:
After trying the sealer Caswell provided, I would suggest sticking with M-Pro (or your favorite) gun oil as described above. As you apply the oil you will see the surface becoming blacker. The supplied sealer is more like a clear lacquer. It produces a slightly lighter surface than before it is applied. Fortunately, both gun oil and the Caswell sealer can be removed easily with brake cleaner to prepare for another blackening session.

Someplace, the Caswell people suggest using Comet brand cleanser to effectively degrease and clean metal surfaces. We don't have any under the sink, but I recall that it contains some bleach and is more abrasive than the Bon Ami we ordinarily have on hand.

On the other hand, when you are scrubbing the solvent rinsed parts with steel wool and the blankener gel, using a little added water, it quickly becomes obvious that there is no beading or other indication of residual oils on the metal parts. I believe the mechanical action of the steel wool and the chemistry of the gel are sufficient.

Sure do hope this helps! The good news is that you can keep doing it over until you achieve the results you like. In fact, multiple full blackening passes seem to deepen the color each time you scrub and rinse. I suspect your experience will be the same as mine, but please keep in touch.

[gb6491]

All the Kahr magazines are stainless, and I like that. But, if you prefer black . . .



Caswell Plating offers a black oxide gel kit for stainless (about $20 plus shipping) that gives good results on Kahr magazines. ...

Nice work there! I've wondered how well that stainless steel blackener worked. Thanks for posting this
Regards,
Greg

[Ol'coot]

TucsonMTB,

Thank you for the detailed instructions, I am excited to give this process a try and will keep everyone informed of my success or failure.

Again thank you.

[Ljutic]

I've been accumulating magazines with the thought of sending them to CCR for House Black one day, but this opens up a whole new world of possibilities. Thanks for posting this.

[2ac]

I wonder how this would work on a slide. I wouldn't mind blackening my CW slide if the finish would hold up.

[TucsonMTB]

I wonder how this would work on a slide. I wouldn't mind blackening my CW slide if the finish would hold up.

Probably about as well as cold blue does on ordinary steel . . . that is to say, not great. It's hard to achieve an even color and the surface is not hardened.

Now that I have been using my blackened magazines a lot, they are starting to resemble the blued magazines from my favorite 1911 manufacturer, with wear marks from insertion, mostly where the magazine catch drags along them during insertion and ejection.

On a magazine, this is not a problem. The visible parts still look great. On a slide subject to holster and handling wear, I suspect you might be disappointed. Still, if you decide to try it, please post pictures!