MK9 G10 Grips

[Alfonse]

Different colors, even different sizes are possible if there is a little bit of demand. I even learned about another material today that could make for some really nice grips too. But, I think Black G10 will be the start.

[Alfonse]

PM sent. grips on to berettabone. tracking number sent.

Thanks! Great photos too. It helps to have others look at it. I stare at something too long and can miss things. After having a look yesterday, it came to me last night how to fix that fit so it should be perfect around the back strap. I should probably make one more set of prototypes to verify it though.

[ReManG]

Thanks! Great photos too. It helps to have others look at it. I stare at something too long and can miss things. After having a look yesterday, it came to me last night how to fix that fit so it should be perfect around the back strap. I should probably make one more set of prototypes to verify it though.

I have a GC sn MK9 if you make another prototype and want another objective fitting review. Just let me know. Put me in for a set of the G10's once you get the file finished as well. No color preference, but if you have enough black orders for a run, I would be up for the next color in the queue...

[berettabone]

Well, I received the prototypes today and checked them out...............as stated by b4, the slide release cutout could be made smaller. I can't comment on the top strap area, because I could not get them to sit flat/flush on top. The grip holes were off by about a 1/16th of an inch, but I could put the screws in relatively easy, without much effort, or stripping the threads. The only problem I saw, was the interior material around the top mounting hole on both sides. It keeps the top part of the grip from sitting flush............If you could eliminate that material, they would fit. I know that these are proto's, and the G10 is different mat'l, but on these, the texturing could be more aggressive. I don't know if this same texturing would feel more aggressive on the G10 mat'l/ or not. If you would like more pics of any areas, let me know............my camera and photo taking skills can leave a bit to be desired

[Alfonse]

The later frames have a milled area for the internal boss. Yours is like the top of a K series grip.

The options would be to leave the boss out or to put something like three little "posts" in to provide support on the later frames. They could be easily cut out for early versions. How does that sound?

The slide stop fit has been changed and the texture is not representative.

Great photos. I do not see why I can't fit them all.

Thoughts?

[Alfonse]

If you want, go ahead and carve the boss away. That is what prototypes are for!

[berettabone]

I'll try that.............................................. ...

[berettabone]

I marked the areas that were a problem in orange. I Dremeled(is there such a word? ) the areas off, and, voila............................................. .......

[berettabone]

continued........................................

[b4uqzme]

Would it be necessary to leave those areas and require some owners to modify as berettabone did? And would that be acceptable to those who want them? I personally wouldn't mind doing a little fitting to get them perfect. You can always take material away...

[berettabone]

There are still some issues.............in pic 5, I couldn't get those "ears" to sit flat. I had the screws in almost as tight as I could get them. I couldn't get a mag in. The holes, after removing the unwanted mat'l, became brittle and started chipping. I thought about washers, like other firearms manufacturers use, but you still need mat'l for the washer to sit on. This is for smarter minds like Alf to figure out

[Alfonse]

The upper and lower holes have different depths on their countersinks on the factory parts and I emulated that on these parts. I was wondering if there would be much material left after grinding out the bosses. Apparently there is not much.

I would love to have a more in detail look at the frame that berettabone has. On the GC and later frames, I was having trouble at first getting the top of the grips to seat and a fillet at the top of the part of the frame that runs down the back strap was the issue. I added a chamfer at the top of the channel that solved that issue.

The way the top of the grip is separated and the ears not fitting makes me think there is something else, probably similar to the fillet on the other frames, that is keeping it apart. I could not see that original fit issue with the fillet, but could feel it pushing up as I slid it into place. It would sit flat until I slid it up against the top of the frame. Once I saw the fillet, a few seconds with a box cutter and I had a chamfer in the early prototype that confirmed that was keeping it from fitting. I can't see enough on the photos to have a good guess as to what the issue might be.

The top screw does screw into the frame further than the lower screw. I could put more material back under the screw, but it might only screw in as far as the lower screws do. I understand they tend to back out sometimes. I'll have a look at that tomorrow.

[Alfonse]

berettabone, also check the surface that runs internally parallel to the slide just below the boss. I was supposed to make it parallel to the top edge of the grip (and the slide) but instead, on these prototypes, made it parallel to the bottom of the grip. There seems to be enough clearance that it did not matter. I did fix it for the next batch.

I don't think that is the issue because it is much wider than the gap at the top of the grip in your photos. The fillet I described above is not on your pistol, from the last photo on entry number 94 on this thread. But, something is holding it apart a bit. I will ponder it.

[berettabone]

I'm not an engineer, and I am not a gunsmith, but I am free, so this is what I figure/did............................................... ... I took some material off the places in orange, which were basically the only places touching the vertical edge of the grip, and on the inside curve of one grip, where it was touching. By doing that, the grip screw holes became a bit closer in their alignment, with both grips, and the top " ears" tightened/flushed up a bit. I included pics of my original grips, and if you will notice.........................the part of the grip that I have marked with tape. Both grips, on top, from the edge towards the center, about an 1/8 in. in, are thicker than the inside of the grip. I think that this is what helps keep the top ears nice and flush. It's like they are carved out. It's the best way I can explain it. More material around the edge, less as you go in towards the center. Something to ponder. I have the grip hole alignment pretty close, and the ears close to flush, but that left side ear just doesn't want to flush out............maybe it's a bit warped also. I don't think I can do any more carving, without making them off for even my MK.

[Alfonse]

That helps a bunch. I am adding some material along that curved edge as part of the fix for the fit issues in that area that b4uqzme highlighted for me.

The factory grip goes to a much tighter radius up there leaving the material thicker out towards the edge. That might help with the fit at the top.

I am wondering if the thickness of the frame on the back is different on the earlier frames. That could be a problem trying to fit everything, but since the lower part seemed to fit alright, it is probably worth playing with. There might be a way to make it fit tightly on all of them.

I think to fit the earlier frames, there might be some grinding to do where the boss is/was. But, I think I can adjust the thickness of the screw holes to work alright after grinding. G10 is really strong, so that should help.

Anyway, the feedback is fantastic. The photos are great too. The early MK frames seem to have a grip design like the K series inside and for some reason it was changed later.