P380 coming out of battery when holstering

[xdjosh1980]

Using a sticky holster - closed at bottom of holster. When holstering or applying pressure to weapon to fully seat in holster, the slide comes slightly out of battery. This appears to be a product of using a closed bottom holster and the design of the slide on the P380.

Any thoughts? Anyone else had this before?

[cobrasjp]

Place your thumb on the back of the slide when holstering. Push with your thumb to seat the gun in the holster, not on the grip. You can keep your hand around the grip, just don't apply pressure to only the grip.

This is a common thing when holstering any semiautomatic. It's just second nature for me to push on the slide and frame together when holstering.

[xdjosh1980]

Place your thumb on the back of the slide when holstering. Push with your thumb to seat the gun in the holster, not on the grip. You can keep your hand around the grip, just don't apply pressure to only the grip.

Correct, and that works, just not had a pistol before that came out of battery so easily. For instance, if the gun is already holstered and I am either placing in wasteband or puting in pocket, the pressure applied to grip alone is enough to cause this.

Movement while inside of pocket, for instance sitting, etc, could potentially cause it to come out of battery.



It may just be the holster...may need to move one size up since I am having trouble with the holster reinborcements around the opening lying right about where the sights are....that friction seems to be part of the problem.

Does that make since...sorry, I'm not carrying this one today or I would snap a quick picture!

[kerby9mm]

It will not happen with a “cocked & locked” 1911.

[xdjosh1980]

It will not happen with a “cocked & locked” 1911.

Thanks for that bit of genious, but at the risk of stating the obvious I'm not asking about a 1911 there slick. FWIW, it doesn't happen with my XDs or Sig238 or....well, you get the point right?

Go hijack someone else's thread...I'm simply trying to resolve an issue I am having with a particular firearm.

If you wouldn't choose that particular firearm then man it is awesome for you that we live in a free country.

Nothing Further...

[Bawanna]

Thanks for that bit of genious, but at the risk of stating the obvious I'm not asking about a 1911 there slick

Go hijack someone else's thread...I'm simply trying to resolve an issue I am having with my choice of firearm that I choose to carry in certain situations.

If you wouldn't choose that particular firearm then man it is awesome for you that we live in a free country.

Nothing Further...

Easy fellas. A little humor in the day can't be a bad thing. Show a little flexibility. Nothing personal to get riled up about.

[FrankFuss]

Thanks for that bit of genious, but at the risk of stating the obvious I'm not asking about a 1911 there slick. FWIW, it doesn't happen with my XDs or Sig238 or....well, you get the point right?

Go hijack someone else's thread...I'm simply trying to resolve an issue I am having with a particular firearm.

If you wouldn't choose that particular firearm then man it is awesome for you that we live in a free country.

Nothing Further...

Actually, considering the difference between the 1911 and the Kahr can lend a little insight into the issue. Since the 1911 is hammer fired, the entire force of the recoil spring is keeping the slide in battery. Since the Kahr is striker fired, the force of the recoil spring is reduced by the force in the opposite direction of the half cocked striker. You can easily see the effect by pushing back on the Kahr slide with the striker cocked and with the striker released. In other words, the Kahr does not have as much force keeping the slide in battery as with other designs, so holstering should be done carefully to compensate for this.

[Cokeman]

If pushing it into the holster pushes the slide back, wouldn't pulling it out pull the slide forward again.

[josp]

Actually, I've had that happen more with my P238, than my Kahr since the slide on the P238 isn't locked when the safety is on.
One of the reasons I sold the P238. I use a hard leather pocket holster and found that loosening it up a bit fixed that. I'm not sure how you would to that on your holster, maybe open a few stitches??

[kerby9mm]

Thanks for that bit of genious, but at the risk of stating the obvious I'm not asking about a 1911 there slick. FWIW, it doesn't happen with my XDs or Sig238 or....well, you get the point right?

Go hijack someone else's thread...I'm simply trying to resolve an issue I am having with a particular firearm.

If you wouldn't choose that particular firearm then man it is awesome for you that we live in a free country.

Nothing Further...

You didn't get the point. I stated the obvious about the 1911 because it should be obvious to you why your gun goes out of battery when you holster it.

[Charlie98]

Actually, I've had that happen more with my P238, than my Kahr since the slide on the P238 isn't locked when the safety is on.
One of the reasons I sold the P238. I use a hard leather pocket holster and found that loosening it up a bit fixed that. I'm not sure how you would to that on your holster, maybe open a few stitches??

If you are using a new holster you may have to break it in a little before it holsters better. I have a Colt Gov't .380 (the grandpappy to the Mustang/SIG P238) and when I had a new Galco IWB holster (even with open muzzle) I had to work the pistol down into it at first. Because it is unlined, it stretched pretty quickly and I don't have problems with it any longer.

Same with my CW9 and my High Noon OWB holster... just that last 1/8"; but as was said, I just push it in with my thumb over the rear of the slide.

With a closed muzzle holster especially, it may take a while, depending on how the holster was cut/sewn.

I think it's something that should be addressed, however... there is the potential for a jam or FTF if something gets into the partially open breech or, in an extreme case, the slide actually comes back far enough to jam the cartridge.