is there a trick to the p380 slide?

[getupatree]

When I re-assembled for the first time, the slide got a bit jammed half way on and I was concerned after reading the manual. I couldn't move the slide forward or backward at all and looked like it may have shifted but then I finally moved it back a bit and it all of a sudden slid back all the way. There was a bit of polymer shavings coming off. Is that normal or is there a trick to it?

Just got my new p380 and did the cleaning and prep last night. Thank Jacko for the tips in Kahr tech section. Also the lube diagram was good. I used grease on the rails.

Going shooting the first 100 rounds in a couple hours at lunch break. Can't wait.

[jocko]

P380

When I re-assembled for the first time, the slide got a bit jammed half way on and I was concerned after reading the manual. I couldn't move the slide forward or backward at all and looked like it may have shifted but then I finally moved it back a bit and it all of a sudden slid back all the way. There was a bit of polymer shavings coming off. Is that normal or is there a trick to it?

Just got my new p380 and did the cleaning and prep last night. Thank Jacko for the tips in Kahr tech section. Also the lube diagram was good. I used grease on the rails.

Going shooting the first 100 rounds in a couple hours at lunch break. Can't wait.

slides sometimes are a beedch to ge toff and a beech to get on. Do not pull the trigger to put the slide on, BUT do pullthe trigger to take the slide off.
Play with it alittle more and u will figure out its quirks. Mine sometimes is a real beech to get on, but like u stated then all of a sudden it gives in and goes right on. I think part of coming off hard and going on hard is that the slide has to move over the cocking cam and that is the hang up. Go out and shoot ur 100 plus rounds and lets hear back after that. It si the msot accuratr 380 I have ever shot.

[getupatree]

thanks Jocko. I tried to get the first 100 rounds in but had to stop after 44. Took me over an hour to do that. Pretty disgusted. Even when I used the slide stop to rack the slide it would often not fully chamber thte round. I couldn't get off more than 2 shots in a row without either a failure to chamber or the slide locking back open. pics and details on other post....

http://kahrtalk.com/p-cw-series-pist...ed-w-pics.html

[jocko]

if the

thanks Jocko. I tried to get the first 100 rounds in but had to stop after 44. Took me over an hour to do that. Pretty disgusted. Even when I used the slide stop to rack the slide it would often not fully chamber thte round. I couldn't get off more than 2 shots in a row without either a failure to chamber or the slide locking back open. pics and details on other post....

http://kahrtalk.com/p-cw-series-pist...ed-w-pics.html

slide is locking back open prematurely. Only two things can cause that.
#1, your thumb is accidently hitting that slide lock lever when shooting and pre engaging the slide lock.
#2, the rounds are hitting on the insde of the slide lock lever and causing it. Do this . take the slide off, then reinsert the slide lock lever . Now insert a loaded magazine and looking down from the top,,, that top round should not be hitting the left side of that slide lock lever and moving it upward. This is very easy to see this way. Those ronds can gbrush by that slide lock lever but if they start to pick up that lever it can cause premature slide locking open and even to some extent cause FTF, as the round is now not taking the straight direction into the chamber. Not saying this is ur issues. eliminate it and then keep[ an eye on your thumb. It is very common on kahrs due to the smallness of their entire line of guns and especailly if ur a right hand shooter..

[getupatree]

I am going to check that tonight on the slide stop (wish I could pull it out at work but probably not a good idea). Definately not grip or limp wristing. Do you think a snap cap will work for this as well?

[jocko]

well a snap cap willcertainly show ones shooting errors. won't help correct a gun issue though.

[tomwalshco]

PM sent responding to yours....

Snap caps are really too light to reinact the action of the ejecting/loading process. Just good for dry fires.

[Flint Ridge]

I have spent way too much time looking at this too...

I've spent a LOT of time working the slide on this and taking it off and on now. The eating of the plastic front tab on the rail seems to have ended for me.

Here is what I have found on the removal of the slide.

Standard takedown procedure... Unload, mag out, rack, pull trigger, remove slide stop. Now here is the trick on mine. As you move the slide forward (one keep your finger off the trigger - you will never get it off with the trigger back) look to see if the metal edge of the striker cam (terminology?) is visible under the slide. If not it will not come off. Either rack slide again and pull trigger (remove finger from trigger) or, move slide back just a little and pull the trigger a few times. Once you "see" the edge of the left cam appear under the rear of the slide, remove finger from trigger and glide slide forward, you will never have trouble again. Mine is easy now. The more I know this rig the more I like it.

Let me know if this works.