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p380 does not go back into battery

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Ikeo74 View Post
    In my opinion racking the slide x number of times could be eliminated all together if the springs were lubed with auto chassis grease.

    Try this method on any and all of the Kahr Pistols you are having trouble with not returning to battery.

    I agree. They are a mechanical device. It's not black magic. Use a good grease I use lithium bearing grease and lube it well

    Really well... Forget the " over lube " BS. The goal is to break it in not to carry it at this point.

    I have broken in two cm9 and 3 Kahr 380s including one that was headed back for repairs.

    I use American eagle ammo , lubed all up well and squeeze them hard. I look my elbow and wrist they don't bend at all. I fight the muzzle flip.

    This is not an accuracy test. It's to get 200 rds through it without a failure.

    The five I have done I have not had one FTF, or a single issue.

    Now I can take my CW 380 or CM9 and fire them barley holding them and they are perfect.

    I think what happens is not exactly limp wristing but similar in effect.

    The problem is they are small and hard to hold and jump out of your grip a bit.

    The guy with the problem 380 was no novice and had been shooting for years. However he was used to a certain way of gripping a pistol and amount of pressure.

    When breaking them in they need a lot and I squeeze as hard as I can.

    I showed him a video I shot with my iPhone and he could not believe it. Every shot the pistol jumped up and he regripped.

    Try the HP caveman break in. It works.

    Oh and when it's broken in light lube is only needed.




    Someday. That’s a dangerous word. It’s really just a code for ‘never’.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by happypuppy View Post
      I agree. They are a mechanical device. It's not black magic. Use a good grease I use lithium bearing grease and lube it well

      Really well... Forget the " over lube " BS. The goal is to break it in not to carry it at this point.

      I have broken in two cm9 and 3 Kahr 380s including one that was headed back for repairs.

      I use American eagle ammo , lubed all up well and squeeze them hard. I look my elbow and wrist they don't bend at all. I fight the muzzle flip.

      This is not an accuracy test. It's to get 200 rds through it without a failure.

      The five I have done I have not had one FTF, or a single issue.

      Now I can take my CW 380 or CM9 and fire them barley holding them and they are perfect.

      I think what happens is not exactly limp wristing but similar in effect.

      The problem is they are small and hard to hold and jump out of your grip a bit.

      The guy with the problem 380 was no novice and had been shooting for years. However he was used to a certain way of gripping a pistol and amount of pressure.

      When breaking them in they need a lot and I squeeze as hard as I can.

      I showed him a video I shot with my iPhone and he could not believe it. Every shot the pistol jumped up and he regripped.

      Try the HP caveman break in. It works.

      Oh and when it's broken in light lube is only needed.
      That is consistent with my experiences. I would only add the 380, being so small, is even more difficult to grip as needed for break in than the other Kahrs.
      Aftermarket accessories for Kahr Pistols at https://lakelinellc.com/
      There are always more in the pipeline...

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      • #18
        This could be the solution to your problem. The failure to return to battery could be due to an extractor that's too, tight. Read the entire thread.

        http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.p...tery-on-CW-380
        Never trust anyone who doesn't trust you to own a gun.

        Life Member - NRA
        Colt Gold Cup 70 series
        Colt Woodsman
        Ruger Mark III .22-45
        Kahr CM9
        Kahr P380

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        • #19
          Originally posted by muggsy View Post
          This could be the solution to your problem. The failure to return to battery could be due to an extractor that's too, tight. Read the entire thread.

          http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.p...tery-on-CW-380
          Thanks muggsy, been looking for that thread....
          23 years in a Federal Penitentiary, 6x8 double bunked rooms with toilets
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          • #20
            SAAMI specs call for a rim thickness of .045 - 010 for the .380 auto. If the extractor is a little on the tight side and the brass is a little on the heavy side the rim may not slide up on the breech face and cause a failure of the round to fully chamber and the slide to fail to return to battery. A rough breech face or chamber can also cause the problem.
            Never trust anyone who doesn't trust you to own a gun.

            Life Member - NRA
            Colt Gold Cup 70 series
            Colt Woodsman
            Ruger Mark III .22-45
            Kahr CM9
            Kahr P380

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by muggsy View Post
              This could be the solution to your problem. The failure to return to battery could be due to an extractor that's too, tight. Read the entire thread.

              http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.p...tery-on-CW-380
              Originally posted by Bobshouse View Post
              Thanks muggsy, been looking for that thread....
              I linked that tread in post #9 LOL
              "To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medication to the dead." Thomas Paine

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