firing pin block

[poko2121]

hi everyone I had a question regarding the way the firing pin block functions in the p380. it looks to me like the firing pin block stops the firing pin by catching onto the firing pin lug and not by actually blocking the path between the pin and primer.

if that is the case then wouldn't a broken firing pin lug cause the gun to fire on its own (since that's also the piece that sits on the cocking cam)?

thank you!

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[gb6491]

hi everyone I had a question regarding the way the firing pin block functions in the p380. it looks to me like the firing pin block stops the firing pin by catching onto the firing pin lug and not by actually blocking the path between the pin and primer.

if that is the case then wouldn't a broken firing pin lug cause the gun to fire on its own (since that's also the piece that sits on the cocking cam)?

thank you!

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Welcome to the forums

The striker block on Kahr pistols engages the striker via a slot in the striker body (nearly opposite of the lug).


Regards,
Greg

[poko2121]

oh I see, thank you for the pictures Greg! so if you dry fire the gun without racking the slide afterwards the striker rests on the block right?

one more question, do you know how much of the striker lug sits on the cocking cam? just trying to get a feel for what level of failure would be required for the gun to fire without a trigger pull.

thanks again

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[yqtszhj]

Based on what i remember from disassembly of the slide and frame and thinking about it the only way the gun would go off on its own (when being dropped for example) would be to have the following:

Broken striker block spring, AND striker block stuck in the up position, AND failure of the c0cking cam or trigger bar then releasing the striker.

Even then you may not have enough enertia behind the striker to ignite the primer.

The reason why is the trigger must be pulled to fully back c0cking the striker, and raise the striker block by overcoming the resistance of the striker block spring, before releasing the striker then igniting the primer.

Dont sound to possible to me with an unmodifed properly functioning pistol. Thats my thoughts anyway.

Dont know if that made any sense at all but I tried.

[poko2121]

yes that made sense thank you. I do notice though that the striker is almost fully cocked after chambering a round (seems like there is only about 10% left to cock and I think that's only to allow for the cocking cam to rotate). does the friction between the cocking cam and the striker lug ever cause the cocking cam to wear down?

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[gb6491]

oh I see, thank you for the pictures Greg! so if you dry fire the gun without racking the slide afterwards the striker rests on the block right?

one more question, do you know how much of the striker lug sits on the cocking cam? just trying to get a feel for what level of failure would be required for the gun to fire without a trigger pull.

thanks again

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

You're welcome
Oops! I see yqtszhj has already answered your questions

"so if you dry fire the gun without racking the slide afterwards the striker rests on the block right?"
I'd say that is correct in most circumstances, but the striker does not need to travel far to be behind the the block. IMO, it's conceivable that the striker could, in some instances, rebound enough to be behind the block.


"one more question, do you know how much of the striker lug sits on the cocking cam?"
Looking at a CW45 (I'd guess other calibers would have similar fit) with the trigger forward, I see the cocking lobe at full height of the lug:


"just trying to get a feel for what level of failure would be required for the gun to fire without a trigger pull."
In battery and everything reset, I wouldn't be surprised if the tension on the striker proved inadequate to bust a primer. Even if it were adequate, without pulling the trigger, the striker lug and the striker block would need to fail before the striker could make contact with a primer. IE, if the lug were to fail, the block would prevent firing. If the block were to fail, the lug is still holding the striker back.

Regards,
Greg

[poko2121]

great pics again Greg. looks like a real solid hold on the lug. thanks!

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[King Rat]

I am guess that this is what is going on with my CW380. Something is blocking the firing cycle. I pull the trigger and a very weak strike, dull thud. Actually, I will hear two clicks. It will hold up and then feel like it slipped slightly forward again. I am wondering if I should tear it down or just send it back for repair. Any suggestions?
Thanks

[topgun1953]

I am guess that this is what is going on with my CW380. Something is blocking the firing cycle. I pull the trigger and a very weak strike, dull thud. Actually, I will hear two clicks. It will hold up and then feel like it slipped slightly forward again. I am wondering if I should tear it down or just send it back for repair. Any suggestions?
Thanks

If this is a new development, I'd bet your striker is broken. Strip the slide to verify. If it is broken, buy a replacement from Lakeline. That should fix you up for life. Of course, I've assumed you don't have one already!😳😳😳

[King Rat]

If this is a new development, I'd bet your striker is broken. Strip the slide to verify. If it is broken, buy a replacement from Lakeline. That should fix you up for life. Of course, I've assumed you don't have one already!

I stripped it down and it is not the striker, that is ok, The whole gun was filled with gunk. I am presently cleaning all parts. I could not believe how beat up the plastic guide rod. I would Kahr spend so much time on all the parts and then put a piece of plastic in it. I will put it back together after cleaning and hope for the best. I have not ordered Lakeland parts, but will do so if the gun actually works.