P380 Light Strikes/Lube Question

[scotchlouis]

napa brand #M high pressures non cholorinated brake cleaner. part # 08880, won't hurt anythinbg.

Wally world : CRC spray non cholorinated spray cleaner. :::: electronics dept. electronic spray cleaner, all will do the same job. One reason why I suggested and use myself the 3M brand is that it is the most pwoerful spray cleaner I have ever use4d. It will blow sh-t out of places that you could nevrer get to. Drys instantly, as do the other mentioned. Wear a rubber glove for any of those spray cleaners for they will take the oil out of your skin and cause dryness.. safety first, as with all gun cleaners...

Picked up the CRC. I ended up taking the slide apart again and spraying out the channel along with the pin, spring, and rod. I tried spraying down in the hole first, but it seemed like it didn't want to dry. Maybe it needed more time. But anyway, it's dry as a bone in there now. Gonna go try it again this weekend. Maybe I'll bring several different kinds of ammo. I still have some PDX left. I'll try that first.

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll keep y'all posted.

[Jackalope33b]

Here is a Thread I started about Brake Cleaner. Acoording to "JOCKO", and alot of other members on here, its the same stuff as those $7 cans. Since you have a Walmart near you, I would get the same stuff I got. It works GREAT, and its less than $3.00 a can. Its called ("Super Tech" Brake Parts Cleaner. NON- Chloninated. Part # WM 2417 14.5oz can ) Im going to check out Sam's club and see how much cheaper it is if I buy it in bulk. But check out the below link, and go from there.

http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7783

[TominCA]

It could be time for new recoil springs. When I spoke to the factory about light strikes they said it was often from failure to go fully into battery. Even a few thousandths out of battery will be enough to cause this. The P380 is kept in battery by the recoil spring tension so if cleaning the striker channel doesn't work try a set of new springs. Mine lasts about 800 rounds (plus a few hundred more cycles"playing with it") In both my P380 the extractor tension was way above anything I have seen. I trimmed the rear extractor pin and reduced the tension to approximate the tension on my PM9 and MK9. The recoil spring must overcome the effort to drive the rim under the extractor. The spring gets weak and it can't push the slide fully home. I think the exact cut on the extractor is very critical - A little bit of difference in the tooth thickness makes a big change in the tension on the rim - and the recoil spring force required.

[jocko]

that

Here is a Thread I started about Brake Cleaner. Acoording to "JOCKO", and alot of other members on here, its the same stuff as those $7 cans. Since you have a Walmart near you, I would get the same stuff I got. It works GREAT, and its less than $3.00 a can. Its called ("Super Tech" Brake Parts Cleaner. NON- Chloninated. Part # WM 2417 14.5oz can ) Im going to check out Sam's club and see how much cheaper it is if I buy it in bulk. But check out the below link, and go from there.

http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7783

is good stuff, I have used it also, and it works great. price is super to. thanks for the report, when it comes from someone other than jocko, it goes to show that there is alot of low priced sray cleaners out there that will not harm anything and will certainly CLEAN.

I just got back fropm my mornng walk and I walk buy my local NAPA store and checked their 3M #08880 price. $2.29. a few cans down was CRC electronic spray for $5.59. I bought 5 cans of the 3M for $10,as they gave me 29 cents pff per can if I bought 5 cans.

[dursker]

Any preference on what oil, or grease to use on the slide contact areas?

[jocko]

I lean towards TW25 (Mil-comm.com) but any gun grease works just fine.

[scotchlouis]

Any preference on what oil, or grease to use on the slide contact areas?

I've been using Ballistol to clean and lube all my guns. Good stuff.

Btw, just ordered some boxes of Speer Gold Dots and another box of WWB to cycle through. Any malfunctions and I'll take the suggestion of changing out the springs and repeat the process. Any more light strikes after that and it will be sent back to Kahr.

[hoghunter]

Just so I am clear, I am familiar with the Brake Cleaner from NAPA. I used it to clean the throttle body of my truck. I will read the thread on cleaning again but just spray that right down in the firing pin area? I have used the Hickok Ballistol & denatured alcohol. I use the Ballistol as the lube/cleaner and the denatured alcohol on a QTip to clean breach face and odd and end metal parts. But I have never disassebled the firing pin area cause I was always afraid of screwiing something up. Spraying this in the striker pin hole (not the tech term) would solve that problem on all my semi-auto guns I guess? I do not have a Kahr yet. All I have ever done was wipe the breach face clean but never got inside.

[TucsonMTB]

Just so I am clear . . .

There is a dedicated clean out hole in the slide for this purpose near the head of the lower arrow of the two labeled "number 9" in the lube diagram pictured below. Insert your tubular plastic extension nozzle (usually supplied with the spray can) into that hole and push the valve on the top of the can. Do it outside and at arm's length for safety.

[Jackalope33b]

Just make sure you spend the extra 2-3 seconds and clean out that striker area with the Brake Cleaner.

Just so I am clear, I am familiar with the Brake Cleaner from NAPA. I used it to clean the throttle body of my truck. I will read the thread on cleaning again but just spray that right down in the firing pin area? I have used the Hickok Ballistol & denatured alcohol. I use the Ballistol as the lube/cleaner and the denatured alcohol on a QTip to clean breach face and odd and end metal parts. But I have never disassebled the firing pin area cause I was always afraid of screwiing something up. Spraying this in the striker pin hole (not the tech term) would solve that problem on all my semi-auto guns I guess? I do not have a Kahr yet. All I have ever done was wipe the breach face clean but never got inside.

[Glockenspieler]

So here's a question for those here who seem to have the time to post by the hundreds in praise of Kahr products:

Why doesn't Kahr simply furnish these instructions with their guns?

Wouldn't that save Kahr the hassle of a backlog of returned guns from unknowing owners so they could more quickly fix or replace their backlog of actual lemons (like mine)?

I performed a similar procedure on my P380, basically gleaned from decades of personal experience and consultation with professional armorers, and, nonetheless, it constantly malfunctioned. I then found this procedure on this site, which was basically identical, (except for lubing the plastic rails), and my P380 continued malfunctioning. Once Kahr replaced the frame (after six weeks away), it took another hundred rounds before it started behaving. Fortunately, I probably will never have to depend on this pipsqueak, but, after this expensive ordeal I am no longer considering a 9mm or .40S&W Kahr as a more compact alternative to my Sig P229's, Glock 23's/27's or .38 snubs, none of which has ever lost my confidence.

[Jackalope33b]

I dont know.. Call Kahr and ask them. Better yet, send them a link to this website http://www.kahrtalk.com/

Why doesn't Kahr simply furnish these instructions with their guns?