KKote on the PM45

[CJB]

Not together... just bare top end on the frame.

I've got a thin spot - no biggie, just recoat.

Also, not too happy with the slide stop or the plate at the back of the slide - they'll both get redone - since I'm gonna spray again anyway.

But thats the overall effect of KKote (GunKote, same stuff). Thats the ORIGINAL stuff, pre gun-marketing, pre-color availability, pre historic... the original KKote... still good in 1 pint cans of it (hadda buy a case of it back in the day... still working on my first can!)

[Bawanna]

You need to do the cake routine and bake that a little bit don't ya. Is that the stuff I'm thinking of?

It looks real nice. You don't show the bad spots you mentioned but what I see in the picture looks darn fine.

[CJB]

Ya gotta bake it at 350F for an hour. You can go hotter and longer, and get a tougher finish, but it effects the color a little bit (darker colors usually). On black, who cares!

The slide has a thin spot at the front. Its where the guide rod pokes out. Its not quite as dark... a little thin coating. I can naphtha the slide, recoat, rebake... no problemo (the biggest hassle is cleaning the spray gun, and thats pretty easy).

The slide stop has a rough finish. I'm not happy with it, so I'll smooth it out or strip it with bead blast, and recoat/rebake. The pin still swivels!

Same thing on the back plate - rough finish. I was in a hurry, and I didn't do the "knock down" on the small parts.

The "knock down" is a trick KalGuard shared back when. You load up lacquer thinner and mist it on the uncured finish. That "knocks down" the roughness and any orange peel. You still get some texture, but its smooth texture.

Overall... I'm happy with the result, even with the little bit of "touch up" that will be needed.

[Krusty]

How long will it hold up if the gun is a daily ccw?

[CJB]

I've never really "worn" a KKote out. The worst is the sharp edges on the front of a 1911 slide (and back) showed a little bright line of wear. And where shells hit it on ejection, I've had an AR15 and 1911 show wear after a lot of rounds (multiple 1000's).

I carried a CZ75 in my work truck (when I was allowed), it did ok for a few years of use in the console mostly. No wear. My Officer's ACP got carried, no wear except for the spots noted. AR15... no wear at all, except for ejection area where shells smack the side of the upper receiver.

Its damned tuff to strip off the finish - you have to really go at it with a sand blaster. I'm using ground glass as media... it takes a little bit, but it comes off.

The finish itself feels "slippery" when you touch it. An interesting feel.

[Bawanna]

Does the baking influence the knock down as well. Seems I read that the baking evened the coat and thinned it some so a little orange peel would flatten out. I've heard it holds up pretty well.

[Krusty]

Where do you buy this stuff and is it easy to apply? I might cover my Rem. 870 barrel and receiver with it. What colors are available ? How much does it cost? Thanks...

[Krusty]

Just Googled this stuff, interesting ! May be also good for my stainless dive knives and spears.

[CJB]

I haven't noticed that baking helps the knock down. You pretty much have to get it right before baking.

Baking does increase shine, and they say increased baking and or slightly higher heat improves toughness of the finish.

Krusty - its now called GunKote. The older stuff is now called 2300 series. The newer stuff is 2400 series. The older 2300 formula is tougher, but only in black. The newer 2400 is available in lots of colors, and is tough but not quite as "to hell and back" as the original coating. I have experience with both, and will say... the 2300, when baked in the oven will induce the ire of yer old lady about as much as wearing a mix of GUNK Engine Brite and Hoppe's #9 as aftershave. The 2400 is easier on the proboscis.

[CJB]

As I type this... we have the parts in the oven, stinkin' up the place. They should be out in about 30 minutes.

Some things I've known, but didn't really think about sharing until I had to actually put the knowledge to use.

Its always best to correct KKote problems before baking. The stuff can be cut with acetone or laquer thinner. If you have a run, or sag, or get a blob from spraying, any imperfection, you can smooth it out with a Q-Tip and some thinner, respray and be happy.

However, should you get a part that doesn't turn out well....

Sometimes you get a rough finish. Many times you can fix that with a very light sanding - 2000 grit - and some polish like Flitz or Mothers. The worst that can happen here, is that you "sand through" and need to respray.

You can just sand it out - sand through - and respray.

Or if its really bad, you can blast it off and respray.

I like the first two options.

The respray is actually not too bad to do, since 99 percent of the part will be fine. Just sand it out with fine 400g or 600g paper, clean in naphtha, and respray. As when doing the first spray - superior results are had when you "knock down" the finish with some lacquer thinner sprayed fine over the uncured KKote.

And... lets say you're putting sights back on... which will need a little re-fitting as the slide's dovetail is now full of KKote. Only half a thousandth of an inch, but... it makes things tighter. So you refit the sight to slip into the dovetail about 1/4 to 1/3 the way, and tap it home. And... you'll find that sometimes your punch will have scratched the finish right at the edge of the dovetail. Oh crap... what to do what to do? The answer is very easy. Just clean the are with naptha, Q-Tip on a tiny bit of coating, let it dry, dab on a tiny bit more... repeat as needed, then rebake. KKote will bond to itself if there are no greases involved to act as a barrier. The naphtha cuts the grease. Don't know how that works with insert type sights - use caution for nightsights and insert types. You can refresh the "white dot" with white superglue (dyed white!) which is available online from guitar making (and other) sources.

KKote looks better if you oil it while its still warm (not hot) from the oven.

And thats about it. I'm wasting some time here... waiting about another 15 minutes and we should have a pistol ready to oil, assemble and shoot.

More in a bit (with more pictures)

[Bawanna]

tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick,

[CJB]

Well, Bawanna, please know I spent my time constructively by going downtown to put some gas in my Sporty, and just to generally give it its weekly run to keep things limber. All of that while Kahr parts were cooling....

Without further adieu:




Got some dust on the slide - paper towel lint, not in the finish.

I'm pleased. I think it came out ok. Everything fit together well, even the fairly tight fitting striker spring retainer.

Check out the slide stop - which was sanded down and re-sprayed. Much smoother finish. You couldn't see it in the first picture, but the same holds for the front of the slide which had a rough finish too. All smoothed out now.

I did @#$@# and made the stainless striker spring guide just a tiny bit too fat on its head. Easily trimmed, which may do later. I fit it to the hole in the retainer, not the hole in the slide. It needs to retract into the slide hole in order to assemble or disassemble the top end. A learning experience there.

Other than that, maybe some daylight pictures tomorrow.

[CJB]

Last of the pics...




Very pleased with the results. Gotta get off my butt and finish the blue 10/22 one of these weekends. Time is the issue... always SOMETHING else to do way more important.

Just a plug for the KKote/GunKote (KGFinishes, aka KalGuard). We see a lot of Ceracoat, not too many GunKote. Its good and forgiving stuff to work with. The only "gotcha" is clean, which the naphtha takes care very well. Keep the surface clean as you spray, it'll be ok.