Wolff 5# Striker Spring

[Markis82]

Today I received the Wolff 5# striker spring, I finally got around to ordering. My CM9's trigger pull weight with the origional factory striker spring registered 7.1 on my gauge. After the new spring was installed, the trigger pull registered between 6.2 to 6.4. I feel the difference when dry firing. However, it does NOT feel to weak to be safe as my EDC. I'm looking forward to a range trip and seeing how it performs. I have posted pic's of my "all in the same whole" 2" - 2.5" groups with 50 rounds at 15 yards. Those pic's are around the forum somewhere. Maybe I can get those groups down to 1.5" - 2" groups with 50 rounds at 15 yards. Possibility, finally doing the "Lethal Weapon" smiley face at 15 yards that I promised Jocko I would not post pictures of. Anyway, I am going to carry my G19 until I can get to the range and confirm there are no light strikes and that everything is copacetic.

BTW, I did replace the mainspring housing on my new Kimber with a 25 lpi checkered metal one and replaced the 23# mainspring with a match grade 19#. Making an oh so sweet shooter even sweeter.

[MW surveyor]

I put the 5# striker spring in my CW9 about 1500 rounds ago. Stopped keeping track of the number of rounds through the gun but still kind of keep track as that is the amount of 9mm reloads I've reloaded/shot. Only one failure to fire in that time and that was from a bad primer. (know it was bad since my CZ Phantom wouldn't fire it off either after about 5 strikes).

Dry fire is one thing but you'll likely notice the difference when doing live fire more.

Good luck. (and if you do the at 15 yards with it, post the darn target no matter what jocko says!)

[TucsonMTB]

. . . My CM9's trigger pull weight with the original factory striker spring registered 7.1 on my gauge. After the new spring was installed, the trigger pull registered between 6.2 to 6.4. . . .

Sweet! Yours is the first measurement I have seen. Sounds like I will have to give it a try.

Thanks for sharing!

[jocko]

My 5#strikler was a tadover 5# but I have a crappytriggergauge to. Markis82 is probalby closer. but like all srings I am sure they can vary a # + or -.I have over 32K through my PM9 with the 5# striker and it now measure under 5# with my crappy trigger gauge. I would venture to say Markis82 trigger gauge is pretty accurate as around 7#is the normal kahr striker weight./

[Markis82]

I just tested it again. It registered between 5.9# - 6.1#. I guess after the new spring has been under pressure for serveral hours, it loosened or began to set. My first gauge readings were taken seconds after the spring was installed. I'll check it again tomorrow and see if there is any change.

[jocko]

ten check it after a couple hundred rounds..

[DJK11]

My PM45 with the Wolff spring breaks at 4.5# and my PM9 breaks at 5.2#. The trigger return spring on the PM45 is noticeably lighter than most. Everyone that handles it comments on the trigger pull.

[TucsonMTB]

Okay . . . Okay! You twisted my arm. That's my story and I am sticking to it. Besides my wife won't even notice the envelope in the mail when they arrive. I ordered a set of three, along with some spare magazine springs.

[pitandkahr]

Is it easy to change out the springs? I couldn't find anything on YouTube?


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[Markis82]

Is it easy to change out the springs? I couldn't find anything on YouTube?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is the thread. Slide detail strip

There is a difference from the video... To remove the slide cover, get a small but strong jewelers screw driver and push the extractor pin in thru the whole in the slide cover. This will relieve tension on the slide cover and you can push it down while pushing in on the extractor pin. This is where you need to watch out for flying parts.

Do it inside a clear heavy duty ziploc bag. From the spring pressure, parts tend to fly out and you'll never find them if they are not contained.

For gosh darn sake, take note of how the parts are as you take them out so you can put them back correctly.

Also have some brake parts cleaner at hand. Might as well clean everything up while you have at appart.

[pitandkahr]

Here is the thread. Slide detail strip

Do it inside a clear heavy duty ziploc bag. From the spring pressure, parts tend to fly out and you'll never find them if they are not contained.

For gosh darn sake, take note of how the parts are as you take them out so you can put them back correctly.

Also have some brake parts cleaner at hand. Might as well clean everything up while you have at appart.

Thank you very much...I could have sworn I saw a video of it being done super quick and that baffled me because I know if I did it, it would take super long...LOL

[Markis82]

24 hours after spring installation the trigger pull weight seems to have leveled out. I tested it 12 times. It registered either 5.8 or 5.9 on every pull. So, I will report back after shoot several hundred rounds, which I hope to do next week sometime.

[Garland]

Thank you very much...I could have sworn I saw a video of it being done super quick and that baffled me because I know if I did it, it would take super long...LOL

I did my P380 yesterday for the first time. It is not that difficult-if I can do it anyone can!

[JFootin]

When I did it on my CM9 to put the 5# spring in, the back plate was really stuck tight, like it was welded in place. I put a little nick in the frame trying to free it up using a screwdriver. (My brother was holding the pin in with a tiny screwdriver.) It finally popped loose and we finished the job.

That trigger is so buttery smooth now, I love it!

[TucsonMTB]

When I did it on my CM9 to put the 5# spring in, the back plate was really stuck tight, like it was welded in place. I put a little nick in the frame trying to free it up using a screwdriver. (My brother was holding the pin in with a tiny screwdriver.) It finally popped loose and we finished the job.

That trigger is so buttery smooth now, I love it!

On my PM40's, the back plates were both very tight as well. I'm guessing Kahr assembles that part using a small rubber handle, rather than take a moment to fit it better during assembly.

If you didn't do anything to free it up yourself, here's a suggestion for the next time you have to remove the back plate:
1. Find a relatively broad screwdriver you don't care too much about.
2. Sharpen the tip of the screwdriver to a knife-like profile that will fit into the seam between the slide and the back plate, hitting below the rounded edges of the seam. Polish your new tool to make it smooth on the sides. With the contact point below the surface, any marks you make will be pretty much invisible once the slide and back plate reassembled.
3. You can then position the sharpened screwdriver and tap it into the seam, like a wedge, to start the end plate moving with no fear of making visible marks.

Worked for me, even on the DLC gun. Having a brother on hand would have been helpful . . .