Black Mag Baseplates for a PM9

[Dooger]

I'm really wanting a black baseplate for my PM9 that doesn't allow any "silver" to show. I have my reasons too, but won't go into them here.

So, what are my options?

The mag I want to change out is a 6 round (I believe MK620) with a metal baseplate.

I know some guys use these: http://www.kahr.com/Magazines/Kahr-P...d-40-SandW.asp But, I've heard they need some sort of modification??? What's the mod?....... I do like that idea though.

Any other options other than the $20 black steel baseplates?

[wyntrout]

You can darken the objectionable part of the magazine that shows using one of those gun finish pens that is more "permanent" than a Sharpie pen.

I did that with some of mine that switched from polymer to steel bases.

Here's the link about that:

http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.p...ht=9mm+barrels


Wynn

[Dooger]

wyntrout,

So did you buy the black steel baseplates AND the Super Black pen?....use the baseplates and then use the pen on the remaining silver steel parts that are visible? Looks good!

Still interested in other options BTW....not sure which route I'm going to take.

[wyntrout]

I already had the pen. I have the blue one, too, but the black one pictured is better for non-stainless steel or aluminum.

I got the base plates and then darkened a few mags just on the visible area. I didn't try to make them look professionally finished... just to cover the silver so the whole gun, or grip in some cases is black. The O-rings are already black.

I was just going for the smallest size for concealed carry, but like black. The finish/touchup pens are $7 to $9, but you could use a Sharpie and re-apply as needed.

Wynn

[newCW45guy]

Have you considered paint?

I used to use Krylon semi-gloss black to duplicate factory black appearance on pulleys/brackets and such on engines.

I sanded, sandblasted, or acid etched (when really rusty) them then washed with soap and hot water. Degreased with a quick wipedown with acetone.

First coat was light. Second coat 30 mins or so later then popped them in a 150 degree oven for 2 hours. Complete cure another 48hrs at room temp.

My oven is electric.. no real explosion hazard... consider other options if you cook with gas. i.e A cast iron dutch oven with some sort of improvised rack preheated could suffice.

Result was a cheap remarkably durable finish.

[Short Bus]

Here's how to use the base in your OP.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zi3UWN6eww0

[olympicmotorcars]

If you decide to paint on bare metal ( stainless ) . You need to use an etching primer on it immediately after you clean it ( rubbing alcohol works great ). Then you can go ahead and prime ( if needed ) with regular primer, then paint.

[Tilos]

OK, here you go...
Buy this:
http://www.kahr.com/Pistol-Parts/Kah...se-7-round.asp
And this:
http://www.kahr.com/Pistol-Parts/Kah...ck-7-round.asp
And cut it to look like the pic
NoGapMagMod.jpg

Sorry, no bloviating video...just a pic
No Gap...No metal
And you already have that base on the extra mag that came with the PM9
I'm told Kahr sells mag base kits, with the base and base lock plate but I could never find them at that site.

[wyntrout]

You'll have to leave a bit of metal showing if you do that. The mag needs to go in far enough to latch securely... usually leaving at least 1/32" or more of metal tube showing. If you cut it too close, latch up may not occur easily or reliably.

I bought the black metal base plates from Kahr. I tried to use the black finish pen on the metal base of a ruined P380 mag and it bubbled because I used too much too fast. I prefer the metal bases for CC and wish that Kahr would make the balck metal bases for the .45 mags.

I bought a bunch of the polymer-based 7-round mags from a guy who ground off most of the finger-tip things and making them look like yours, Tilos. I just use them for the range. I like to have a lot of magazines.

Wynn

[Tilos]

What I said...
Understand that once you fit it, with no gap, it will never change, with no chance of it ever NOT latching/catching.
Yes, the plastic Kahr version can be modified/slimmed, but that pinky pinching GAP will still be there.
Many other brands have close fitting mags without a problem but I have found that the different model Kahrs have different distances from the latch to the grip end.
With all these variations, as a fix, Kahr makes mags that are too long, creating a gap, so that any combo of mag and base will work in all model
guns.

If I put that fitted mag base onto my CW9 mag, it will NOT latch in my CW9.
This is the EXACT reason no one makes a gap filling after market mag base...a different one would need to be made for every 9mm model Kahr.
How do I know all this?
I have done extensive research, measuring, and collecting data from all 9mm Kahr models, not just speculation based on what I've seen of one model.
How do I know all this?
Ask LorenzoB
jmo

[Sgian]

I do like that solution Tilos. Could you tell me how you came to figure out how much of the base to cut? Or was it a method of cut as much as you felt comfortable, fit, sand, fit, sand, fit, sand, fit until perfect?

[wyntrout]

If it's too danged tight a fit, any heat or cold could affect lock up, so a tiny bit of slop is necessary... and lots of testing before you play YBYL!

Wynn

[CJB]

I'm really wanting a black baseplate for my PM9 that doesn't allow any "silver" to show. I have my reasons too, but won't go into them here.

So, what are my options?

Dooger, does this have anything to do with being picked on as a kid in school for having bright white socks show below the bottom of yer slacks?

Get some K-Kote KG-Koatings black finish. Dip the base of the magazine in the finish (after cleaning taking it apart, cleaning it and rinsing it with alcohol or acetone or lacquer thinner). Bake for an hour at 350. It'll be black. You can dip small parts in the stuff where fit isn't critical.

If you have access to a spray rig - just a small one - that will do too.

[Tilos]

If it's too danged tight a fit, any heat or cold could affect lock up, so a tiny bit of slop is necessary... and lots of testing before you play YBYL!

Wynn

Ha, I hear you on that, but if my guns colder than 98.6 it means I'm dead and won't be using/needing it