Trigger finger

[finpro]

A Dremel is fine for the trigger front. For the bottom of the trigger where you catch your finger, getting emery paper into the small gap between trigger and trigger guard and working slowly and carefully is safer.

[jocko]

do not head that lower frame....Use the pad of your finger and thats all you want onb the trigger. If you must fokk with that area, take a file and work slowly, remember once you take polymer off, you can't redo it. Unless you have a finer bigger than your big toek, then IMO u are doing sumpin wrong. rind the bottom off the bottom of your trigger finger and try that, if it doesnt work, it will grow back i a week. Just sayin

[Bawanna]

Jocko's been home a couple weeks. All his English and typing learning down south has plumb worn off.
I had to use my decoder ring to get some of this one.

Welcome back Jocko.

[Bills1873]

No matter, still good to hear from the feller!

[1stnamebassist]

I have the same issue with my ct380. My finger rubs on the trigger guard and eventually will start bleeding. Doesn't matter how I pull the trigger, whether its my finger tip, first pad, second pad or the knuckle. My finger is somewhat large and is twisted a bit and curved toward my middle finger a bit. Maybe that has something to do with it.I found by putting a hogue or pachmayr grip sleeve on helps a bit. It fills out the bottom of my hand a bit and changes the angle of attack of my hand and finger. I did take a swiss file and arkansas fine stone and broke the edge of the trigger a bit, but it didn't help at all. Maybe someday I'll order up an extra trigger and grind and polish some off the face near the top of the trigger and blend it in taking less and less as I move down. I think that would help my finger stay on the trigger and keep it from rolling down and onto the trigger guard as it's pulled. But the reality is as long as I only shoot fifty or so rounds it's not an issue. It's the marathon shooting sessions when it becomes an issue.

[finpro]

This doesn't sound like a problem that would have made Mother Teresa weep. Tiny .380s are not really meant for extended range sessions. It is a basic trade-off of their small size and weight, though I know a CT 380 is more shooting oriented than its smaller relatives. If you can shoot 50 rounds without hand damage, you should count yourself lucky. I once had an all steel blowback action .380 that was extremely painful and was amazingly inaccurate.
If you want to pursue this without resorting to finger liposuction, the first thing I would try is a Wolff 5# striker spring. This might change the pull characteristics just enough to make the problem disappear or it might not, but it is a low cost, easy fix, if it works.
If this does not work and, since you sound comfortable using tools, you might work on the trigger surface and shape as you outline. Its tricky to remove and replace a Kahr trigger. Full disclosure: I have never seen a .380 Kahr, but I assume the trigger setup is the same as for larger polymer Kahrs. If possible, try to avoid disassembly and, instead, work on the trigger in place.
I recommend placing the gun in a padded vice held by the slide and, with the polymer surfaces masked by tape, filing the upper trigger flatter and tapering down as you outlined. Filing just the front of the trigger flat opens more finger space with less metal removal and might hold your finger better. I would use a round diamond file like those used for sharpening chainsaws. If you are not too sensitive about the aesthetics, leave the trigger face rough to help hold your finger in place better during the trigger press. Since you are not disassembling the gun, it is easy to remove it from the vice to test periodically, though the real test will be extended range shooting, of course.

[berettabone]

All firearms have their place..................little Kahr's are not for the range. I've never had a finger issue with any firearm, but if I did, and really liked the firearm, I would cut down on the range time, and use a RANGE gun for practice.

[bugs]

oh contraire, mon amie berettabone, my EDC/Match CM9 has between 3/4000 rnds. fired and counting, all range and match fired,(thank God) with no finger/other issues except the itch for trigger time.

NRA LIFER
IDPA BELEIVER

[berettabone]

oh contraire, mon amie berettabone, my EDC/Match CM9 has between 3/4000 rnds. fired and counting, all range and match fired,(thank God) with no finger/other issues except the itch for trigger time.

NRA LIFER
IDPA BELEIVER

Are you shooting at 25 and 50 yds.? I didn't think so...........................mon amie. If you are, you're one of the very few who uses a CM9 for 25 and 50 yds.

[bugs]

never tried 50 yds.;the deepest bay I'm aware of in my area is about 60 ft.,and seldom do the MDs use all of that, as it would be very,very close to breaking the 180 rule. I do routinely practice 41ft. head/57ft. body shots, because new rules allow those distances in a standards (skill)stage; most stages are from 0/20 ft.,18 rnds. max. IMHO,50 yards is beyond the scope of realistic defensive shooting and IMHO is STRICTLY a skill test used in a match situation.

NRA LIFER
IDPA BELEIVER

[Bawanna]

50 yards is time for a rifle in my book. Plenty of time to run or hide in a defensive situation.

For me now days 25 yards is a poke even with a 1911.

[bugs]

I could not agree more !

NRA LIFER
IDPA BELEIVER

[1stnamebassist]

This doesn't sound like a problem that would have made Mother Teresa weep. Tiny .380s are not really meant for extended range sessions. It is a basic trade-off of their small size and weight, though I know a CT 380 is more shooting oriented than its smaller relatives. If you can shoot 50 rounds without hand damage, you should count yourself lucky. I once had an all steel blowback action .380 that was extremely painful and was amazingly inaccurate.
If you want to pursue this without resorting to finger liposuction, the first thing I would try is a Wolff 5# striker spring. This might change the pull characteristics just enough to make the problem disappear or it might not, but it is a low cost, easy fix, if it works.
If this does not work and, since you sound comfortable using tools, you might work on the trigger surface and shape as you outline. Its tricky to remove and replace a Kahr trigger. Full disclosure: I have never seen a .380 Kahr, but I assume the trigger setup is the same as for larger polymer Kahrs. If possible, try to avoid disassembly and, instead, work on the trigger in place.
I recommend placing the gun in a padded vice held by the slide and, with the polymer surfaces masked by tape, filing the upper trigger flatter and tapering down as you outlined. Filing just the front of the trigger flat opens more finger space with less metal removal and might hold your finger better. I would use a round diamond file like those used for sharpening chainsaws. If you are not too sensitive about the aesthetics, leave the trigger face rough to help hold your finger in place better during the trigger press. Since you are not disassembling the gun, it is easy to remove it from the vice to test periodically, though the real test will be extended range shooting, of course.

i find the CT 380 much more shootable than my buddy's Bodyguard. We were at the range Sunday and we put 100 plus rounds through both guns and I guess the grip sleeve as well as Galloway striker spring kit helped as I had no issues with finger cuts or scrapes or booboos or whatever! I do believe in shooting what I carry as much as possible or what I can afford anyway. The CT380 is not a range gun but is a very shootable, fun, accurate gun. I'll probably leave the trigger alone as everything seems ok now. Didn't realize what a pain to remove the trigger can be. Your idea with clamping and using a chainsaw file would be a great way to rework the shape then follow up with a dremel with sanding drums then polish. Now I need to stop obsessing over getting an MK9 or 40. The 9 is pricey but I'm seeing the 40 on sale for less than 500. Never owned a forty or shot one for that matter so probably passing on that would be a good idea. Thanks for the trigger rework idea.

[Ed M]

Now I need to stop obsessing over getting an MK9

Resistance is futile.....