I had to do some filing on my CTL to get it to fit properly at the front. There was an issue with lasers not fitting properly some months back. I think the problem has been corrected, but I just used a file and got it to fit decent enough, keeps it from moving anyway.
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I bought CT lasers for all 3 of my PMs. I also bought laser bore sights from Planet Optics. To zero the laser, first you have to decide the distance you want to zero. Adjusting the laser so it's in line with the sights will do. As previously pointed out, if you use the boresight, the two beams will intersect only at a specific distance. However, in the real world, the amount you would be off at different distances, is only slight. Next, go to the range and shoot a few mags into the target. You will probably find that your grouping will not be dead on center. (due to trigger control) In my case, I grouped appx 2" low and 2" left of bullseye at 7 yds. Now get out the bore laser and insert it into the chamber of the barrel. (The bore sight is constantly on.) Holding the bore laser at bullseye, adjust your Crimson Trace so it is centered on your point of impact. Remove the boresight and you should now be hitting bullseye whenever you shoot. In application, this is very simple and it took about 1 min to zero in the CT laser. If the POI drifts, just re-zero it.
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Originally posted by thetmanski View PostI had to do some filing on my CTL to get it to fit properly at the front. There was an issue with lasers not fitting properly some months back. I think the problem has been corrected, but I just used a file and got it to fit decent enough, keeps it from moving anyway.NRA Benefactor Life Member
WA Arms Collector member
Arms Collectors of SW WA member
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Originally posted by BrewerGeorge View PostIt's unavoidable. The laser axis is so far from the bore that parallax error is a big deal. Imagine trying to line up two laser beams that are 3 inches apart at the start. You have to pick a spot where you want the beams to cross, and the closer that distance is to the barrel, the quicker they'll get too far apart at distance. I've been thinking of applying some trigonometry to figure out the best distance for the crossing point, because the problem is even worse with my revolver but I haven't gotten around to it yet. For now I'm set at 10 yards.
Alternatively, you can set them up so that the two beams are parallel. That way they will never cross, but the distance and direction they're off will be the same at all distances from the barrel.NRA Benefactor
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Originally posted by ltxi View PostThe biggest of a couple/three reasons I avoid laser sights.Kahr PM9094 - Hornady Critical Defense
Marlin 30-30
Mossberg 500A 12 GA
Marlin .22LR
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Originally posted by MO_Soldier View PostLike I said, maximum variance is 3-4" within 30ft. I don't need any more range than that on my SD gun's laser, and with that I'm still hitting COM easily.
CT suggests that the laser be sighted in at 50'.
I think the reason for that is that the POI and the POA will never be further apart than the 1 3/8" distance that they are at the barrel, all the way out to apx 40 yards where the bullet has dropped 1.32" below POA.
HTH.
-steve-NRA Life Member
-Pants up! Don't Loot!
-It isn’t Islamophobia when they really ARE trying to kill you!
-Arms discourage and keep the invader and plunderer in awe, and preserve order in the world as well as property.
Horrid mischief would ensue were the law-abiding deprived of the use of them.
-Thomas Paine
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I have a CT on my CM9 (I followed everyone else)
Its "ok", and can see the value of it at low light
situations, but at the range, I use the sight picture 100%
IMHO, its helps you to procatice to get a better, even trigger
pull, but its not the be-all end-all that I thought it was going to be.
Night sights will go on the other pistol, not a laserA servant of my Lord and Saviour, Jesus
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