I have the very same problem with the sharp edge of the trigger guard. Irritates the top of my middle finger. Wish it was rounded.
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I didn't notice a problem with the trigger guard. I shot 100 rounds of 124gr through it this weekend. Awesome day with it. No issues in function at all. I did have a divit in the spring pocket on the slide. Apparently the barrel tilts up and this area is supposed to be clearanced during production. Mine got out without this being done. After posting pics of the area on the forum , I found out it isn't a big deal. A few minutes with the dremel fixed it. Good to go now.Originally posted by Carolinakid View PostI have the very same problem with the sharp edge of the trigger guard. Irritates the top of my middle finger. Wish it was rounded.
Sig P228, X5 L1
Kahr T9, PM9
P225, P365
Sig P6,
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Would you mind posting a pic of the gun and info for the smith that did the melt job?
Thx.
Originally posted by CB3 View PostI have carried the TP9 for 2 1/2 years and love it. I like the slightly lighter weight and slimmer grips for carry purposes. I have lightened and smoothed the trigger so it is a great shooter. 8+1 with Barnes PBX bullets and a backup mag with another 8 rnds gives me good confidence. It is slim and conceals well in Thunderwear, although I have done a melt job on sharp edges (especially the slide serrations) and the rear of the slide to round it off substantially. Very reliable. About a thousand rounds through it without any problems.
Previously I carried the 7+1 Kahr P40 which I liked, but it was tough to shoot as a smaller gun, and 8 rnds was only the beginning of my comfort level for firepower in the gun. Once I determined there was little difference between 9 and 40 in the real world of defensive shooting (multiple hits, good bullets), I felt 9MM would be the way to go. A little less recoil, another round of capacity, full grip, reasonable weight, longer slide & sight radius, and still carries the same as the smaller P40/9.
Prior to the Kahrs I carried KelTecs--first the P11 (1995), then the P40. While I worked on the triggers and got them to work well, parts would break on me too regularly, especially with the 40, which they discontinued because of such problems.
When I go to my Hi Cap for OWB, some competitions and training (where I am not allowed to use Thunderwear), I use two Beretta PX4 Storms, one in 9MM and one in 40. Love them both, but too hefty for daily carry in T'wear for me.
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I will start a new thread on how I prepare my Kahrs for my personal use. I do the work myself. I have had my Dremel for 18 years and ruined nothing.
Melting is simply removal of material to round sharp edges and make the gun more "friendly". For instance, the back end of a Kahr slide prints less, hangs up on the draw less (especially from Thunderwear), wears less on clothing, etc., if it is more rounded:



I used a belt sander on the rear of the slide with a very fine grit to change the shape, then a Dremel with progressively finer metal polishing attachments until I got the mirror finish with no scratches (1 1/2 hours).
I did the same with the slide stop (1/2 hour). BTW, because of the polishing on the slide stop lever and the mating notch in the slide, when I ram a reload into the grip, my slide stop releases, the slide closes and chambers the top round with no further manipulation. Fast.
As well, the slide serrations are sharp and uncomfortable to use when racking the gun dozens of times in a practice session. By hand I used 600 grit grey wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a small flat file to gently round the serrations' edges (1/2 hour).
With the slide removed from the gun, I close my eyes and run my hand over every surface. Anywhere I feel anything sharp, I round it gently by hand with 600 then 800 grit paper wrapped around either a small file or a sanding sponge. I usually do a quick polish of the surface with the Dremel and a cloth polishing bullet with emery compound on it to remove any tiny scratches. There are about three dozen surfaces I treat this way, including all sliding metal contact surfaces, and of course the barrel/chamber area, slide stop, etc. My TP9 slide and barrel probably have 7+ hours invested to date. The frame has an additional hour and my three mags about the same.

I'll do the same by hand for any polymer protrusions/edges, going even more slowly and carefully as it is easy to remove too much material quickly. I find the grip checkering to be overly aggressive, so I apply a Brooks Tactical Agrip. Really like it. Available from Kahr.
When I am satisfied I am through working on the gun, after about a year and numerous sessions, I will have the slide bead blasted to get an even finish and remove all shiny spots, then I will have a local certified refinisher Ceracoat the metal with a color of my choosing.
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nice work, am I seeing an illusion but did u also contour the rear sight??
Nice work. My PM98 is melted but not as noticeable as what u did... My PM9 has over 34,000+ rounds through it, and runs much better than an illegal trying to get across our border
NRA BENEFACTOR MEMBER
MAY GOD BLESS MUGGSY
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