New guy - Michigan - Deciding on first handgun

[GoBang]

And here I thought all you wanted was something that would Go Bang.

If I just wanted something to go bang, I'd give my pots and pans to my 1-year old.

[AIRret]

GoBang….there is a Gun Store/Range in Southfield MI that will allow you to rent A CALIBER!!!!!!! It's true and I have never heard of another place that will do that…

This means you can go in there and say; "I want to rent 40 cal"….then you can shoot one two, three, whatever guns all in that caliber. This would definitely give you good info. and help you make a choice!!
The place is; "Action Impact" and they are in Southfield. I know that's a bit of a drive but
if it were me it would be worth it!
Their phone number is (248) 799-7300.
Good Luck

[berettabone]

There have been SO MANY caliber arguments.........................If you analyze data, properly placed shots conquer all........some would argue that if you're going to shoot .40 cal., then you might as well move up to .45.......close in velocities, larger hole. Properly placed 9mm will also due you well. It's what you can shoot accurately, and comfortably, that is the key. It's why I own all three. They all have a purpose.

[b4uqzme]

Thanks for all the advice, guys. There are a lot of subjective views on caliber/ammo, and my preferences (as they are) are based entirely on academic analysis. So take my views with a huge grain of salt. Also, don't laugh at me too much.

.45 is really designed to work out of a 5" barrel. Dropping to 4" or 3.5" is a pretty big hit on the velocity. And .45 already is a slow ammo. So for the smaller guns I believe 185gr is the best choice.

As for .40... My perspective then, is that if I'm already down to 185 then I may as well keep the extra round, thinner gun and cheaper ammo and shoot 180gr .40S&W which was designed to shoot out of shorter (4") barrels to begin with. Even dropping to 3.5" is only a minor hit to velocity, and the heavier (than 155/165/etc) bullet will travel slower-enough to allow most/all of the powder to ignite behind the bullet before it exits the barrel. The heavier bullet has a greater density, and should offer better penetration. And lastly, most people claim that heavier bullets (for caliber) result in less snap to the recoil (just more "push back"). That sounds like a good option for getting quicker follow-up shots.

I have nothing against 9mm. It's not even "off the table" for me. It just seems to me that if I'm going to have a small, lower-capacity gun on me then I'd better make sure each shot has the most potency possible (or reasonable).

Flawless logic. I commend you. Until you pull the trigger...then one of two things is going to happen:

1) you will pat yourself on the back for making such a sound choice

2) you will start over from scratch because you will feel like you shot your hand off. I remember the first time I shot full-power .357 magnum out of a snubbie revolver. I would have sold that gun for a dollar.

I too settled on .40cal as my go-to self defense caliber. The only difference is I took a long time to get there. So maybe you are smart to go there first. But where's the fun in that?

[downtownv]

Welcome to the forum from the Jersey Shore. What's wrong with 9mm?

[RainingAgain]

Being blunt

I'm a newbie to the board and a newbie to handguns. I'm married, have 2 kids, and work as a data analyst.

I'm deciding on my first pistol but am 85% convinced I want a Kahr in .40 S&W. While I would love to get a premium model in the future, my first purchase would be either a CW40 or one of the new CT40s.

I also plan to run 180gr ammo in it, unless that presents some kind of a problem for Kahr guns (in which case I'd use 165, nothing lighter).

I realize this is a lot to decide when I haven't fired one of them, but I *am* a data analyst, after all!

So hi everyone. I hope this begins a long run of ownership of Kahr firearms.

Welcome fellow Michigander / Michiganian

When I was new to shooting, I thought that a smaller compact gun was the way to go, probably easier to handle and shoot. Boy was I wrong.

It sounds like you have become prematurely preoccupied with stopping power and ballistics. There's time for that latter. Much latter.

I have a reminder for you. You've probably run accross this in your reading. A large bullet or a fast bullet does NOTHING if it doesn't hit the target. You need to worry about shot placement. FBI database stats tell us that Law Enforcement folks hit about 20% of their shots somewhere on the target . This is not an argument for a bigger caliber. It is an argument for training and also simply to remind us this isn't an intellectual book study process.

Practice is important. Practice is expensive. Go with 9 mm. If you want, buy a gun that is easily upgradeable to a .40SW barell from the 9mm. Start with 9 and hope to avoid learning a flinch reaction. Save some money for competent instruction. Repeat that yearly. Save some money for a safe. You have kids.

I'll voice something that won't be popular here, most Kahr guns are not for beginners. There are better, more flexible choices out there.

Try to shoot these:

Glock 19
M&P 9 full size
Walther PPQ M2 -9mm
FNH FNS-9

Buy the one you shoot the best and feels the best. That would include ergonomics for your hand shape and size, felt recoil, ability to reach the trigger with a proper grip and the sights. Not a bad idea to get night sights immediately. My list will very, very likely put a 100% reliable gun in your hands. I own all but the Glock. I have fired it and own three other Glock models.Buy extra mags for training.

Your investment is $500 to $600 with any of these. Spend a like amount or training in the first year. Ammo for adequate practice for a year is around $4000.

Good luck.

[RRP]

I agree with much of your post, RainingAgain.

At the risk of hijacking this thread, I'm curious to hear more about the training you do that consumes $4,000 of ammo, annually.

[GoBang]

I too settled on .40cal as my go-to self defense caliber. The only difference is I took a long time to get there. So maybe you are smart to go there first. But where's the fun in that?

Oh, don't worry. I intend to have several more before I'm done. Likely in multiple calibers.

I get what you (and others) are saying. I'll heed the advice and test at least a couple of calibers out. My neighbor has a Springfield XD in 9mm. Maybe I can get him to join me at a range and I'll rent a .40 to compare.

[GoBang]

Your investment is $500 to $600 with any of these. Spend a like amount or training in the first year. Ammo for adequate practice for a year is around $4000.

Good luck.

Actually, I was pretty convinced I would get a Canik55 C-100 (via Tristar) in 9mm, but then I started drooling over Kahrs. Easy to find them in the $350-375 range. The L-120 with the 4.7" barrel is around the same price. That one's not for conceal carry, but definitely a great house/range gun.

[RainingAgain]

I agree with much of your post, RainingAgain.

At the risk of hijacking this thread, I'm curious to hear more about the training you do that consumes $4,000 of ammo, annually.

I don't reload and pay to shoot indoors three times per week. In the last year, 9mm FMJ has been from $14.50 to $17 per box. I'll shoot some SD rounds and they are $28-31 for 50 online. Even at just 100 annual range trips, ammo (3 boxes per trip at $16, $10 daytime range fee)...well do the math. I'm way over $4000 before any training classes.

[RainingAgain]

Actually, I was pretty convinced I would get a Canik55 C-100 (via Tristar) in 9mm, but then I started drooling over Kahrs. Easy to find them in the $350-375 range. The L-120 with the 4.7" barrel is around the same price. That one's not for conceal carry, but definitely a great house/range gun.

There is nothing more frustrating than a malfunctioning gun. It's only topped by the frustration of sending it away for 3-5 weeks when it gets (posssibly) repaired. I've come to love Glocks for their simplicity, reliability, parts availability and even the common YouTube DIY videos.

canik is on their THIRD importer. It is also DA/SA and will be harder to Master

[RRP]

...I've come to love Glocks for their simplicity, reliability, parts availability and even the common YouTube DIY videos.

And for 200 bucks, you can become a certified armorer. Buy parts at cost and do your own work.

[GoBang]

There is nothing more frustrating than a malfunctioning gun. It's only topped by the frustration of sending it away for 3-5 weeks when it gets (posssibly) repaired. I've come to love Glocks for their simplicity, reliability, parts availability and even the common YouTube DIY videos.

The Caniks seem to be pretty well made. And I love the CZ75 platform on which they're based. I also really like 1911s, but I just don't see myself carrying a gun that big every day.

Right around 3.5"-4" seems like a perfect blend of size and carry-ability. I wouldn't want smaller than 3.5", and I probably wouldn't want to carry anything over 4" around all the time.

[berettabone]

Welcome fellow Michigander / Michiganian

When I was new to shooting, I thought that a smaller compact gun was the way to go, probably easier to handle and shoot. Boy was I wrong.

It sounds like you have become prematurely preoccupied with stopping power and ballistics. There's time for that latter. Much latter.

I have a reminder for you. You've probably run accross this in your reading. A large bullet or a fast bullet does NOTHING if it doesn't hit the target. You need to worry about shot placement. FBI database stats tell us that Law Enforcement folks hit about 20% of their shots somewhere on the target . This is not an argument for a bigger caliber. It is an argument for training and also simply to remind us this isn't an intellectual book study process.

Practice is important. Practice is expensive. Go with 9 mm. If you want, buy a gun that is easily upgradeable to a .40SW barell from the 9mm. Start with 9 and hope to avoid learning a flinch reaction. Save some money for competent instruction. Repeat that yearly. Save some money for a safe. You have kids.

I'll voice something that won't be popular here, most Kahr guns are not for beginners. There are better, more flexible choices out there.

Try to shoot these:

Glock 19
M&P 9 full size
Walther PPQ M2 -9mm
FNH FNS-9

Buy the one you shoot the best and feels the best. That would include ergonomics for your hand shape and size, felt recoil, ability to reach the trigger with a proper grip and the sights. Not a bad idea to get night sights immediately. My list will very, very likely put a 100% reliable gun in your hands. I own all but the Glock. I have fired it and own three other Glock models.Buy extra mags for training.

Your investment is $500 to $600 with any of these. Spend a like amount or training in the first year. Ammo for adequate practice for a year is around $4000.

Good luck.

I agree with your choice of weapons, adding Sig and Beretta..........the rest, not so much........................he's new at this, according to his own words. He has a wife and children, and a job..................you've got him becoming swat in 6 easy lessons, and buying night sights. :israel:

[RainingAgain]

And for 200 bucks, you can become a certified armorer. Buy parts at cost and do your own work.

For $35 you can join GSSF and use the Glock Armorer there. They will replace anything or everything in your Glock while you wait. NO CHARGE.