Done Waiting For An SR-1911!

[Deano]

Thank you for the kind words! The spring kit I bought was the Wilson Combat custom 1911 government from Midway. Here's the link.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/787...911-government

It came with a new firing pin spring, main spring, and 2 recoil springs. The setup I'm using right now with my light hand loads are the new main spring and firing pin spring, but I left the stock recoil spring in there. It runs like a clock and has no issues so I don't see a need to change anything right now. But if I shoot something that ends up being pretty hot, I have the extra recoil springs right there.

I haven't looked into Wolff springs, but I do know that they make springs for a lot of very high-end firearms. I doubt you could go wrong with Wolff or Wilson. The thing I liked about this kit was that it was only 20 bucks, and I got my trigger down to around 3 pounds. It's quite a shooter! I highly recommend some new springs.

I don't have a 1911 (yet), but how difficult was it to change out the springs. Did you do it yourself, or need a gunsmith? I'm not familiar with the inner workings of the 1911.

[TheTman]

I have a Kimber Custom II and I am very happy with it, even if it is the older style with external extractor. It's very accurate and I've had zero problems with it.

[Bawanna]

I'm done waiting too. Going to abandon my post and go pick it up right now! Be back in a bit.

Deano, they are not terribly difficult, no need for a gunsmith. Kind of a trick question really, open heart surgery isn't tough if you know what your doing.

There's lots of schematics and they all pretty much look the same inside. You'll rarely have to go there. A recoil spring every once in a great great while and it'll probably run forever.

[TucsonMTB]

BTW, is a field strip and cleaning enough before my first range session or should I do a complete detail strip and cleaning? I am not afraid to take it down to the last part. But, I don't want to if it is not necessary.
Thanks Again,
Mark

It is usually not necessary. Some of the high end builders (Les Baer comes to mind) instruct you not to even field strip during the initial 500 round break in period.

Usually, there is no need for a detail strip until you get to between five and ten thousand rounds. Most 1911 builders (manufacturers, whatever) are careful to exclude debris and provide enough lubrication during assembly.

Some people detail strip once a year, usually just before the start of their season of heavy usage for matches. Some people detail strip a new gun, just to see how nice it is inside. When I buy a used gun, I detail strip it out of curiosity.

Sorry for the slow response, we had other distractions this morning.

[Markis82]

I'm done waiting too. Going to abandon my post and go pick it up right now! Be back in a bit.

Deano, they are not terribly difficult, no need for a gunsmith. Kind of a trick question really, open heart surgery isn't tough if you know what your doing.

There's lots of schematics and they all pretty much look the same inside. You'll rarely have to go there. A recoil spring every once in a great great while and it'll probably run forever.

I bet you got one for $650.00, you dog. Pic's!!

[Markis82]

It is usually not necessary. Some of the high end builders (Les Baer comes to mind) instruct you not to even field strip during the initial 500 round break in period.

Usually, there is no need for a detail strip until you get to between five and ten thousand rounds. Most 1911 builders (manufacturers, whatever) are careful to exclude debris and provide enough lubrication during assembly.

Some people detail strip once a year, usually just before the start of their season of heavy usage for matches. Some people detail strip a new gun, just to see how nice it is inside. When I buy a used gun, I detail strip it out of curiosity.

Sorry for the slow response, we had other distractions this morning.

No sorrys! Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks again! I will read the manual and proceed as it advises.

[gb6491]

BTW, is a field strip and cleaning enough before my first range session or should I do a complete detail strip and cleaning? I am not afraid to take it down to the last part. But, I don't want to if it is not necessary.
Thanks Again,
Mark

Mark,
Congrats on the new Kimber!
Yes, a field strip,cleaning, and good lube will be enough for your first range session, but BE CAREFUL NOT TO DEPRESS THE GRIP SAFETY WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING THE SLIDE. Failure to do so can result in damage to frame mounted components of the firing pin block system.
I've been real happy with my TLE II and think you will be with your Custom II.

Regards,
Greg

[Deano]

Mark,
Congrats on the new Kimber!
Yes, a field strip,cleaning, and good lube will be enough for your first range session, but BE CAREFUL NOT TO DEPRESS THE GRIP SAFETY WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING THE SLIDE. Failure to do so can result in damage to frame mounted components of the firing pin block system.
I've been real happy with my TLE II and think you will be with your Custom II.

Regards,
Greg

Thank you for that nugget about the grip safety. I would not have known that, and sure as the Oregon rain, I would have done just that. I love this forum.

[Markis82]

BE CAREFUL NOT TO DEPRESS THE GRIP SAFETY WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING THE SLIDE. Failure to do so can result in damage to frame mounted components of the firing pin block system.
Regards,
Greg

Thank you Greg. That might just be the most important bit of info I have received thus far.

[gb6491]

Thank you for that nugget about the grip safety. I would not have known that, and sure as the Oregon rain, I would have done just that. I love this forum.

Thank you Greg. That might just be the most important bit of info I have received thus far.

You're welcome.
I should clarify a couple of things:
First, the warning applies to guns that use the firing pin block system that Kimber uses. Some S&W 1911's use a similar system, but I'm not familiar with them. Colt also had a like design years back, but I don' think they made any guns that used it (if there are any, they are probably very valuable). I'm not sure if anyone else uses the system.
Second, the damage is most likely to occur when installing the slide, but I included the "when removing" part because could happen during that operation: say if it bound up before coming off the frame and the user were to work the slide back and forth to free it up.
Regards,
Greg

[Bawanna]

I bet you got one for $650.00, you dog. Pic's!!

The Eagle has landed!!!! Very close on the 650 figure. I'll do some pics when I get home tonight.

My initial new gun report can be summarized as SWEET!

[Markis82]

The Eagle has landed!!!! Very close on the 650 figure. I'll do some pics when I get home tonight.

My initial new gun report can be summarized as SWEET!

Congratulations! You deserve it!

[TucsonMTB]

Congratulations!

[Deano]

How'd you do it. I'm sure you're deserving, but I'm still jealous.

[bapple]

I don't have a 1911 (yet), but how difficult was it to change out the springs. Did you do it yourself, or need a gunsmith? I'm not familiar with the inner workings of the 1911.

All I did was look up some youtube videos that had step-by-step procedures. As long as you follow the procedures, it should be very easy.

Just go to youtube and type in "changing main spring 1911," or "removing firing pin 1911" and you'll get how-to's for both of those. There's no need to spend money sending it to a gunsmith because it's very easy to do.