Score - S&W M36

[mr surveyor]

If Smith doesn't have any of the old "flat latch" bolts on hand you probably going to have to do a lot of 'leg work' to find one. I suggest giving any of these folks a try:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/
http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/
http://www.gun-parts.com/index.html/
Post on the S&W forums: http://smith-wessonforum.com

It appears fitting more modern parts is possible:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-han...lat-latch.html

Perhaps a comparison of the old and new part would give you an idea where the old part needs tweaking and if it's something you could do yourself.

Alternatively, contact S&W about repair/retro fit.

Good luck,
Greg

Thanks for the links. At this point, I really don't care how "original" this thing is (I will certaily save the original parts-even though the bolt is boogered), but I do plan to make it 100% functional. The new bolt is obviously for a newer model. I didn't mic the cylinder pin intercace stud, but from a quick visual it appears the new bolt has a smaller stud than the original, and it's not quite as tight a fit in the cylinder pin lock-up hole. But, it does fit well in the frame and aligns perfectly with the cylinder pin opening. My original bolt spring and plunger are also fine. If the new model thumb piece and thumb piece nut fit the 1963 frame.... and I would only assume they should .... I'll order those two parts and verify proper "fit" before I sand a thousandth or so off the interface pin as it does extend a bit too far past the recoil face and puts the cylinder pin into a bit of a bind.

If I get the new parts to function properly, I may try to tweak the old bolt to properly align...... any tips on that little chore would be greatly appreciated.

surv

[Barth]

Thanks for the links. At this point, I really don't care how "original" this thing is (I will certaily save the original parts-even though the bolt is boogered), but I do plan to make it 100% functional. The new bolt is obviously for a newer model. I didn't mic the cylinder pin intercace stud, but from a quick visual it appears the new bolt has a smaller stud than the original, and it's not quite as tight a fit in the cylinder pin lock-up hole. But, it does fit well in the frame and aligns perfectly with the cylinder pin opening. My original bolt spring and plunger are also fine. If the new model thumb piece and thumb piece nut fit the 1963 frame.... and I would only assume they should .... I'll order those two parts and verify proper "fit" before I sand a thousandth or so off the interface pin as it does extend a bit too far past the recoil face and puts the cylinder pin into a bit of a bind.

If I get the new parts to function properly, I may try to tweak the old bolt to properly align...... any tips on that little chore would be greatly appreciated.

surv

I like Numrich a lot too for my S&W gun parts.
Sig and lots of other guns too.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/

One more obscure link is;
http://www.hoosiergunworks.com
They don't take internet orders.
You have to call.

[mr surveyor]

The new "modern" thumbpiece and thumbpiece nut came in today. They fit properly, although the MIM thumbpiece being blued, as well as the nut being blued tend to add to what I already consider the trashy look of a mirror finish nickle plate gun. But, the parts will fit. I took a little off the bolt today, but still left some protrusion through the recoil shield/breech face. It still puts too much tension on the center pin when opening the cylinder, as well as causing a bit of hang when closing the cylinder (unless you manually retract the bolt a tiny bit with the thumbpiece. I ran out of play time tonight, but another 10-15 minutes to dis-assemble, then work down another thousandth or so off the bolt with 400-600 paper (and polish with 1200-1500) should take care of it. There's no doubt that the original bolt was either out of spec from day one, or it was damaged by someone trying to open the cylinder when it was glued shut at the crane.

I'll still keep my eye out for an original bolt.....may run across a "parts gun" some day, or one of my gun shop buddies may luck on one. At least the original nickle thumbpiece, or even a stainless one from a Model 60 would help keep that shiney nickle from looking so much like a pimp gun. That silly blued thumpiece really sticks out.

surv

[Standpat]

I'm pretty sure that Kroil should NOT be used on nickel plated guns. Don't be in a rush to use it. On the other hand, if you know anybody with an ultrasonic cleaner it might be a good time to visit them. (Harbor Freight even sells them.)

Personally, I think everyone should have at least one S&W J-Frame in their collection. They are truly a classic American handgun.

[gb6491]

... At least the original nickle thumbpiece, or even a stainless one from a Model 60 would help keep that shiney nickle from looking so much like a pimp gun. That silly blued thumpiece really sticks out.

surv

http://www.caswellplating.com/electr...ickel-kit.html

[mr surveyor]

finally took the time today to finish working the bolt down to size. I left it just a tiny bit long thinking it will wear in after a few hundred open/close cycles. Had hopes that mrs surv would be interested in this one, and had ideas of conning Bawanna into making some custom grips for her, but alas, she just don't care for DA revolvers.

Darn, another excellent small handgun I will have to make use of myself.

[JFootin]

finally took the time today to finish working the bolt down to size. I left it just a tiny bit long thinking it will wear in after a few hundred open/close cycles. Had hopes that mrs surv would be interested in this one, and had ideas of conning Bawanna into making some custom grips for her, but alas, she just don't care for DA revolvers.

Darn, another excellent small handgun I will have to make use of myself.

Darn! I can still put you in touch with my gunsmith if you want a real trigger job done on it. Like I say, my 638 is 4.25 lb DA and it goes bang every time. It has become my favorite gun!

[DeaconKC]

finally took the time today to finish working the bolt down to size. I left it just a tiny bit long thinking it will wear in after a few hundred open/close cycles. Had hopes that mrs surv would be interested in this one, and had ideas of conning Bawanna into making some custom grips for her, but alas, she just don't care for DA revolvers.

Darn, another excellent small handgun I will have to make use of myself.

If it is a burden to you, send it to Deacon's Home for Excess Firearms......

[mr surveyor]

darn Deac..... I was about to box it up and drop it off at the post office, then I noticed your address was in Illinois. Now, you know that just ain't gonna work. I'll figure out something useful for it

[DeaconKC]

I HATE living in this kommunist state!

[mr surveyor]

I feel for ya, Bud

This afternoon I realized I had given every single piece of .38 spl brass I had collected, either to a friend that started reloading last year, or to my Son that started dabbling a bit this year. So, not having any brass to load up, I considered going to wallyworld (I despise doing business with them....don't like all the chicom crap they sell) and buying one box of whatever decent American made .38 spl they had on the shelf. At the last minute, I called one of my gunshop buddies out in the sticks to ask if he had any new brass available. A few minutes later I was pipcking up his only 100 ct bag of new Starline .38 spl brass for $16.75 OTD. So, now I don't have to subject my most recently acquired revolver to overpriced factory ammo.

I didn't get to take the day off myself today, but Thursday is my Son's B-day and I'm letting him take off..... I'll be doing a bit of reloading, and maybe a range trip to shoot a few through the M36.... and the SP101....and the SuperRedhawk.......then cleaning brass.......

Nothing like life in the slow lane