So what tools would you buy?

[Planedude]

As it says...

My Son bought an old Marlin 49 rifle from his wife's side of the family. He brought it by the house a while back and asked for some help with evaluation and cleaning. While we finally got time to do it and finished after some problems, but I really saw the need for a more complete set of gunsmithing tools for doing such hobby work.
I have decided to work on a 1911 project gun and I have other projects in mind. I would like to have a tool kit that would hold enough gunsmith specific tools as to allow work on most pistol and rimfire firearms.

That said, what would you buy??

[Bawanna]

A good set of hollow ground screwdrivers. I have a set from Brownells with like 64 bits ans still have to modify one now and then.

A good set of punches and roll pin punches and starters is invaluable. Most other stuff except specific model tools is just decent mechanic type tools.

Most of the so called gunsmith sets are terribly over priced, better to add what you need as you need it.

A good vise is a must too.

[wyntrout]

Don't forget the Dremel or Dremel-Like Tool... and a BFH or non-marring mallet.

Wynn

[Salty]

Grace and Chapman tools are what I use for the basics. You need screwdrivers, brass punch set, mallet, plastic hammer, small vice, breakfree clp, kroil, ballistol.

http://www.graceusaguntools.com/

http://www.chapmanmfg.com/

[CJB]

+1000 on the Brownells set.... they used to have a lifetime warranty on the tips, but more.

Brownells makes a set of punches with replaceable pins - absolutely good stuff. Get the long pins, shortten as needed.

You want some good brass and nylon punches - again Brownells with replaceable tips

Nylon punch pin block - a life saver... guess where... Brownells

I like Dremel, but the Black and Decker tools take all the Dremel accessories and are very nice too. The real McCoy is the Fordham.... but expensive.

You'll want a nice sharp mill bastard - about an inch wide, single cut

You'll want some Grobet needle files - a warding file for starters. Yes, at $35 a file, they're expensive. And yes, they're worth EVERY PENNY

Some soft stones, say 1/4x1/4 x 6

And a nice hard stone slab, maybe 2 x 4 x 1/2 thick

Some GOOD calipers by Mitutoyo or Brown and Sharp or even better Etalon

Tweezers, and a good set of "see more" specs.... magnifier visor.

A big bottle of #9 Benchrest and CLP

Lots of shop rags

Small brass hammer, LARGE brass hammer, and leather hammer too is nice.

Then - specialized tools for say - 1911 or Smith revolvers or Ruger revolvers etc.

[Planedude]

+1000 on the Brownells set.... they used to have a lifetime warranty on the tips, but more.

Brownells makes a set of punches with replaceable pins - absolutely good stuff. Get the long pins, shortten as needed.

You want some good brass and nylon punches - again Brownells with replaceable tips

Nylon punch pin block - a life saver... guess where... Brownells

I like Dremel, but the Black and Decker tools take all the Dremel accessories and are very nice too. The real McCoy is the Fordham.... but expensive.

You'll want a nice sharp mill bastard - about an inch wide, single cut

You'll want some Grobet needle files - a warding file for starters. Yes, at $35 a file, they're expensive. And yes, they're worth EVERY PENNY

Some soft stones, say 1/4x1/4 x 6

And a nice hard stone slab, maybe 2 x 4 x 1/2 thick

Some GOOD calipers by Mitutoyo or Brown and Sharp or even better Etalon

Tweezers, and a good set of "see more" specs.... magnifier visor.

A big bottle of #9 Benchrest and CLP

Lots of shop rags

Small brass hammer, LARGE brass hammer, and leather hammer too is nice.

Then - specialized tools for say - 1911 or Smith revolvers or Ruger revolvers etc.

As a metal smith and aircrafter all my adult life I have a few (too many) tools. I will be buying a new set for this task as the places I will be working an the guns is in the house and the wife (firmly) believes my old Craftsman box of nasty aircraft tools stays in the workshop... Or I do.
Sad that I have a whole drawer of hammers and mallets but not one of them is brass or leather.
I do still have the Dermel that I got for Christmas when I was 12. Kind of like me anymore, clunky and outdated but still up for a go at it...
Files I have a plenty, now how sharp they are after 10 or 15 years...??? I will say I'm pretty good working them. May need to check out a new set for smithing. That's kind of like the hammers I have only for planishing sheetmetal structures, but I do miss my old anvil and plates I had before.
I have a few triangle stones but they are fairly course. These are for deburing and quick edging of tools. What grade of stone do y'all find useful. I have a set of those "diamond plates" for knife work.
Mag Visor (with light), check. Too many years pinning really tiny wires into plugs on airplanes that were in the nastiest of spots. That thing is survival as are the extra focal length lenses. Ditto on tweezers, dental tools and surgical clamps. Leftovers from building models.
As for Hoppe's #9, ahhhhh the smell of the cleaning table and the memories of all the great stories told and life lessons learned...

And I'm leaning towards a 1911 block to start off with. Anyone have a favorite?

Bawanna, how big of a vise is "enough" for pistolsmithing in your experience?

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, they are great.

[TheTman]

I have a Marlin Glenfield Model 60, with the full length cartridge tube. The rifle will not shoot unless you leave a 2 or 3 inches of the insert with the spring hanging out the front of the the rifle. It looks to have a slight bow in the insert tube, so figured I might try the only tube I can find, from Brownells, I think it is the same length. Didn't have tape handy when I was looking at it. Hell even if it left a few shots in the tube it'd be better to me then having the tube sticking out. I think that after you shoot a few, you can close the tube and it works ok.
Probably wouldn't even mess with it, except it was my dad's. It needs to be sanded down, and re-blued, (I have some Brownells Oxpho Blue, that seems to do a pretty good job) It's still plenty accurate, so I figure it's worth putting a little money into, about 28.00 plus shipping, plus it was Dad's. Any thoughts about the new spring tube making it feed right? I guess I could try rolling it over a flat surface and applying pressure where it bows up. Might try that first. Always did like those Marlin Glenfields they always seemed to shoot well for the price. Stock Is pretty good, no big dents, a couple discolored spots, so may refinish that too. I re-did an old .22 single shot years ago, that came out pretty well. Then my cousin snatched it, said it was his Dad's, and he had passed away the previous summer, so I didn't argue about it. I think my brother vouched for my cousin anyway.

[Bawanna]

I have a Shop Fox which is a cheap version of what I think they call a Parrot Vise. It's real handy. Not solid enough for doing sights.
I really don't think the vise can be too big and a big part of solid is what it's mounted to and how it's mounted.

Nice list CJB, I have most of the stuff you mention, need to upgrade some punches, can't ever have enough.

[Planedude]

Thanks for the suggestions folks. GunShow first thing in the morning so we'll see if there is anything useful there.
Mostly going for parts and ammo but will have a little cash for the right firearm deal.

Hopefully the crazy has subsided and the people will be the more the happy go lucky crowds I'm used to and not the rude bunch of newbies that I suffered thru at the new years weekend show...

Have a good one.