Using Speedloaders with J-frame?

[JFootin]

I bought 2 Safariland Comp-1 speedloaders to use with my new S&W 638. I got this brand because they automatically release the bullets as soon as you get them all the way in, without having to twist the knob. Well, the standard Uncle Mike's Boot Grip interferes with the speedloader. I have to jiggle and force it for a minute or more to get it to straiten up and get the rest of the way in there where it will release the bullets, and it is scarring up the grip.

I don't understand this. Surely S&W, Uncle Mike's and Safariland should have these designs compatible with each other. But about every accessory grip I look at, whether plastic, rubber or wood, is shaped exactly the same in that area, extending just a few mm too far into the space needed to allign the speedloader and insert it.

Why is this?

Why are the grips—all of them—not relieved more in that area?

And why does Safariland sell a product that they know damn well won't work with the gun it is made for?

Does this happen with HKS speedloaders, too? Are they a bit more compact or something?

The only thing it looks like I can do is use a Dremmel-like-tool to relieve the left grip panel where needed. Or get a set of the small classic grips.

But won't I remove the finish if I try to relieve that area on a wood grip?

I'm perplexed. J-frame owners, please help me.

[Thunder71]

Speed strips are your friend.

[JFootin]

Speed strips are your friend.

I haven't tried them. But aren't they much slower than the insert, press and go with a speedloader?

[jlottmc]

They are slower. You can relieve the grips, and refinish as well. Not that hard either way. I use HKS for my round guns, the knob lets me release from farther away, and they fit in the exact same space as the cylinder. That last part is nice, no overhang anywhere. If you want to use those I would relieve the grips a bit and refinish.

[340pd]

Look at this product. I am not sure if they will work with your grips but they work great with my 686ssr. I would give them a call. Generally I have found you need thinner grips with any round speedloader and a J frame. I use speed strips because they are easy to carry in your back pocket.

http://www.5starfirearms.com/

[JFootin]

Look at this product. I am not sure if they will work with your grips but they work great with my 686ssr. I would give them a call. Generally I have found you need thinner grips with any round speedloader and a J frame. I use speed strips because they are easy to carry in your back pocket.

http://www.5starfirearms.com/

Thanks. It looks interesting. The cutouts between bullets will provide relief from the grip and the cylinder release lever, both of which prevent the loader from lining up with the cylinder. I don't mind grinding and sanding on the stock grip, but I really don't want to mess with the release lever.

[Thunder71]

With practice, I've seen people use speed strips very fast, plus you don't have the bulk of the speed loaders. I don't think many folks with the small J-Frames bother with speed loaders from what I've read.

[JFootin]

They are slower. You can relieve the grips, and refinish as well. Not that hard either way. I use HKS for my round guns, the knob lets me release from farther away (does this mean you can't get the HKS straitened out either?), and they fit in the exact same space as the cylinder (In other words, they are no bigger around than the cylinder? Neither are the Safariland). That last part is nice, no overhang anywhere. (Whaaat? ) If you want to use those I would relieve the grips a bit and refinish.

Thanks, jlottmc.

[340pd]

One of the hassles with speed loaders in 38sp. or .357 is the wobble of the long cartridges. If they are held not tight in the loader they can get hung up going into the chamber. A proper revolver has chamfered cylinder holes to aid in guiding the rounds into the cylinder. The system really works well with short stubby .45's. I know if you practice using dummy rounds you can get really quick with speedloaders or moon clips. The down side to speed-loaders is the potential to turn the knob as you are pulling the loader out of your pocket. Five rounds on the ground is not good in a gunfight unless your speed-loader is very heavy and you have a good arm to throw the empty loader at your aggressor. Remember if you are using a S&W snubby with a 2" barrel, the ejector rod will barely get five .357 casings completely out of the cylinder without them hitting the cylinder release button. I would hate to have to reload one of mine under a lot of stress. I am not knocking snubbies, I have a 640 and carry a 340pd much of the time. They are very reliable but require a lot of practice if they are to become your primary carry gun.

Secondly,

I would call the people at 5star with your questions before ordering. I have a pair of their loaders and a loading block. It is a quality product.

[JFootin]

One of the hassles with speed loaders in 38sp. or .357 is the wobble of the long cartridges. If they are held not tight in the loader they can get hung up going into the chamber. A proper revolver has chamfered cylinder holes to aid in guiding the rounds into the cylinder. The system really works well with short stubby .45's. I know if you practice using dummy rounds you can get really quick with speedloaders or moon clips. The down side to speed-loaders is the potential to turn the knob as you are pulling the loader out of your pocket. Five rounds on the ground is not good in a gunfight unless your speed-loader is very heavy and you have a good arm to throw the empty loader at your aggressor. Remember if you are using a S&W snubby with a 2" barrel, the ejector rod will barely get five .357 casings completely out of the cylinder without them hitting the cylinder release button. I would hate to have to reload one of mine under a lot of stress. I am not knocking snubbies, I have a 640 and carry a 340pd much of the time. They are very reliable but require a lot of practice if they are to become your primary carry gun.

Secondly,

I would call the people at 5star with your questions before ordering. I have a pair of their loaders and a loading block. It is a quality product.

Thanks, 340pd. My gun is a .38 spl Model 638 and it has no problem ejecting cases. My speedloaders from Safariland will not release the bullets by twisting the knob. It only releases them when the loader pushes against the ejector star on the end of the ejector rod in the gun. And the bullets feed into the chambers just fine, about 1/2". The whole problem is that the grip and the cylinder release button get in the way so that the loader cannot line up to push the bullets the rest of the way into the cylinder easily. If it would line up, I could learn to do it very quickly. As it is, I have filed the grip down enough to get it to barely go in. Maybe I'll file it some more.

Those 5star loaders look like they will solve that problem because of the gaps between the bullets. One gap would clear the button while the next one would clear the grip. (I think.) I'll call and talk to them. Or maybe I'll Dremmel four gaps in one of the Safariland ones and see if it holds together....

....Well, it's been over an hour and I have continued to very slowly file down the area of the grip that is in the way. (My Dremmel-like-tool is a cheap little battery operated rotary nail file. Not much umph. Takes it off as very fine black dust.) I also looked at the speedloaders. There was a ring of mold flash at the back edge that I filed off and I rounded off the back edge on both of them. Wallah!!! :israel: Now they work! Slide right in there and, with a little push, the bullets release and it's loaded! I'm not particularly quick yet, but practice will improve that. Now I need to get some fine sand paper to clean up these mods. What grit should I get to restore a sort of dull smooth finish on this plastic?

[LaP]

When using speed strips, use a 6 round strip and load only 5 rounds....
the trick is to leave an open slot in the middle of the strip. That way you can hold it easier and get two rounds loaded quickly and line up for the next two rounds.
It's easier than my explanation. But, having an empty space in the middle of the strip makes for easy manipulation during the process.

[jlottmc]

I leave my spot on the tab end. Jfootin, I have seen some speed loaders that were larger in diameter than the cylinder. The rounds were lined up correctly, but the thing was a tank. I usually carry a Winchester 110gr semi jacketed hollow point in both of my 357's, and use the speed strips for the little one. I keep the speed strips in a cartridge pouch that looks very much like a cell phone case when on my belt.

[JFootin]

I've never looked at or handled a speed strip. In my gun, the bullets can slide effertlessly in and out of the chambers. Do you pull the strip sideways to release the bullets without pulling them out?

[Bawanna]

The case rims are just grabbed by rubber lips on the speed strip so I just kind of twist it off once the rounds are started in the cylinder. They are pretty secure but at the same time they pop off pretty easy too.
My revolvers are all 6 shooters so I need all the slots in the speed strip but when a 5 shooter shows up in my future and I'm pretty sure it will I intend to try leaving a middle slot empty as LaP suggested. I think that might work pretty well.

[ltxi]

When using speed strips, use a 6 round strip and load only 5 rounds....
the trick is to leave an open slot in the middle of the strip. That way you can hold it easier and get two rounds loaded quickly and line up for the next two rounds.
It's easier than my explanation. But, having an empty space in the middle of the strip makes for easy manipulation during the process.

x2....didn't know anyone else really did that. Two...skip one...three, for J-frames in my case.

Feeding off other comments and for me...speed strips are much easier to carry concealed, practically speaking just as fast or at least fast enough with practice, and don't dictate my grip choices.