Originally posted by muggsy
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Anyone reloading 380auto?
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Helpful. I've got 5 lbs of power pistol and bought it because it crosses over from 380 to 40. Sounds like it is not that big a deal. Thanks.My Sword - PM4044N/CTL/Talons
- "One should diligently train at all times." Miyamoto Musashi
- "Train in technique until it requires no thought - no mind and just happens." Takan Soho
- "The truth beyond the technique....Here's where we stop thinking and start shooting." Brian Enos
- "A single sword against the cold sky." Yamaoka Tesshu
- "You must concentrate upon and consecrate yourself wholly to each day, as though a fire were raging in your hair."
Taisen Deshimaru
- "Know your sword!"
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Bit the bullet tonight and ordered what I need to get 380 auto going on the press. Compared 500 rounds of ammo to new Hornady dies, new shell plate, 500 Barry's plated bullets, 500 once fired brass, and a spare set of retainer springs that I have neglected to have on hand for much too long. I have the powder and primers on hand.
So hopefully everything will get shipped and I can start customizing some fun for the wife's gun. She still has a good supply of ammo on hand, so it took some convincing...but Got-Er-done. The equipment will more than pay for itself in the long run.My Sword - PM4044N/CTL/Talons
- "One should diligently train at all times." Miyamoto Musashi
- "Train in technique until it requires no thought - no mind and just happens." Takan Soho
- "The truth beyond the technique....Here's where we stop thinking and start shooting." Brian Enos
- "A single sword against the cold sky." Yamaoka Tesshu
- "You must concentrate upon and consecrate yourself wholly to each day, as though a fire were raging in your hair."
Taisen Deshimaru
- "Know your sword!"
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I reload 380, and have had no problems at all with it.
One caveat. You're dealing with three to four grain powder charges, and most times there's only three or four tenths of a grain difference between starting and max loads. Most digital scales have a tenth of a grain tolerance, and that amount of potential error becomes significant in a small charge like this. Also, flake powders like Unique are very difficult to consistently meter in these small quantities and this adds to the potential amount of error in your charges. Use a good beam scale, and stick with the known proven easy-metering powders like W231 / HP38, Universal, etc.
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Gary we're living in parallel worlds. I'm going to have my left knee replaced soon. The right knee was done four years ago. I'm wishing you the best of luck with the surgery and a speedy rehab. I was driving myself to physical therapy in only 4 weeks and was as close to normal as I get in three months. Best thing since progressive reloaders were invented.Originally posted by garyb View PostHelpful. I've got 5 lbs of power pistol and bought it because it crosses over from 380 to 40. Sounds like it is not that big a deal. Thanks.Never trust anyone who doesn't trust you to own a gun.
Life Member - NRA
Colt Gold Cup 70 series
Colt Woodsman
Ruger Mark III .22-45
Kahr CM9
Kahr P380
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You need to do it with a bit more flare, If you catch my drift, you won't catch your fingers.Originally posted by coonbait View Postthe only problem I have reloading 380's is every once in awhile I pinch my finger in the press when trying to keep the bullet straight with the case mouth when seating. fat fingers and small cases = ouch
Never trust anyone who doesn't trust you to own a gun.
Life Member - NRA
Colt Gold Cup 70 series
Colt Woodsman
Ruger Mark III .22-45
Kahr CM9
Kahr P380
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I reload 380. I use the same bullet as 9 mm, a Lee 105 grain swc. Basically I use 2 grains less powder than a 9mm. The cost is about the same, about 6 dollars a hundred.
I don't shoot that much 380. Usually keep factory loads in it for social use.
As far as feeding in a Kahr, don't know. I run mine in Ruger LCP and don't have a Kahr 380“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― Dalai Lama XIV (as told to high school students.)
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I load .380 for my wife's Bodyguard (and temporarily for a G42)… But I also reload 5.7x28mm for my FsN(s) and PS90… o I am a gotten for punishment. All on the old single stage Lee my dad got me when I was a kid.
One of things I learned the hard way… I was trying to find more projectiles to load the round and couldn't find .355 95 grain bullets anywhere, so I got a box of .356 Remington 88grain JHP from Midway based on everyone saying how it shot fine in a 380acp and they were "meant" for 380acp. I found out quickly that the extra .001" made a huge difference when seating the bullets. It created a ridge around the case. They would not drop into a case gauge (though they would go into the chamber fine), and I started worrying about if I should mic the barrel to make sure they would even pass through it. If they were just LRN, I wouldn't have worried. I ended up taper crimping them, and I shot them with a heavy glove on. They worked, but I now have 450 .356 88 grain bullets I won't use. Back to the Speer .355 TMJ 95 grainers or Berry's when I can find them.
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Just push them thru a LEE .355" size/lube die ($20), load/shoot 'emOriginally posted by Jollyrogers View PostI load .380 for my wife's Bodyguard (and temporarily for a G42)… But I also reload 5.7x28mm for my FsN(s) and PS90… o I am a gotten for punishment. All on the old single stage Lee my dad got me when I was a kid.
One of things I learned the hard way… I was trying to find more projectiles to load the round and couldn't find .355 95 grain bullets anywhere, so I got a box of .356 Remington 88grain JHP from Midway based on everyone saying how it shot fine in a 380acp and they were "meant" for 380acp. I found out quickly that the extra .001" made a huge difference when seating the bullets. It created a ridge around the case. They would not drop into a case gauge (though they would go into the chamber fine), and I started worrying about if I should mic the barrel to make sure they would even pass through it. If they were just LRN, I wouldn't have worried. I ended up taper crimping them, and I shot them with a heavy glove on. They worked, but I now have 450 .356 88 grain bullets I won't use. Back to the Speer .355 TMJ 95 grainers or Berry's when I can find them.
I push every lead bullet I buy thru a sizing die
I apologize if my post contains the same or similar information as someone who has posted before me.

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Something tells me that you are bulging the case with the seating/crimping die or that you are seating the bullets too long.
At any rate the lightweight 380 bullet can make a devastating 9mm round at 13-1400 fps.“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― Dalai Lama XIV (as told to high school students.)
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Anyone reloading 380auto?
Originally posted by 100percent View PostSomething tells me that you are bulging the case with the seating/crimping die or that you are seating the bullets too long.
Loaded the same way with .355 vs .356 projectiles, I am not seating to deep, that I am sure of. Regardless, they do work, just something to note when loading for .380... I do not recommend using .356 jacketed bullets. Lead is a different story.
Yes, may use them for my 9 to see what I can do with them.
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I recommened the sizing die because YOU said this:Originally posted by Jollyrogers View PostExactly what I did, but had a Redding die for this. It worked fine. Using .355 TMJ or JHP, no need for it.
"but I now have 450 .356 88 grain bullets I won't use"
Now you are SAYING this:
"Exactly what I did, but had a Redding die for this. It worked fine."
So I need to ask, which is it, bullets you won't use, or bullets you resized and used ??
FYI, you can RESIZE jacketed bullets
I just thought I'd offer a suggestion, I'm confused now, but that's not unusual.
so nevermind
I apologize if my post contains the same or similar information as someone who has posted before me.

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