New grip screws completely change the look of my beat up TRP

[tpelle]

I'm a little late to the party.....as a matter of fact I just got here! Anyway, I prefer the grip screws that are (or maybe were) sold by 10-8. The slot was cut so that they could be unscrewed by using the rim of a .45ACP case.

One of the demonstrations of John Browning's genius is that the 1911 pistol can be detail-stripped by using no "tools", other than the part that you've previously removed. Even, for example, the little lock screw on the magazine catch can be removed by using the little bent tab on the sear/trigger spring.

Torx or Allen-head grip screws sort of go against Saint John's principles!

[gb6491]

I'm a little late to the party.....as a matter of fact I just got here! Anyway, I prefer the grip screws that are (or maybe were) sold by 10-8. The slot was cut so that they could be unscrewed by using the rim of a .45ACP case.

One of the demonstrations of John Browning's genius is that the 1911 pistol can be detail-stripped by using no "tools", other than the part that you've previously removed. Even, for example, the little lock screw on the magazine catch can be removed by using the little bent tab on the sear/trigger spring.
Torx or Allen-head grip screws sort of go against Saint John's principles!

Welcome to the party!
True, the 1911 can be mostly disassembled using other parts of the pistol, but there are parts that you would play hell getting off that way (sights, grip screw bushings, barrel link pin). So, I disagree that Torx or Allen head grip screws go against Saint John's principles, but rather that they fly in the face of the Gospel according to Hilton Yam.
I'm not knocking your choice of grip screws, but I've carried many other types of firearms afield that require tools to disassemble (or even tighten the grip screws) and have not been handicapped by that. I've also not been plagued by loose grip screws on my 1911s, so I've decided to go with what looks good to me. Bawanna might understand that.

BTW, the above doesn't mean I don't think slotted screws don't look good on a 1911. I just think they are a better look on some guns rather than on others.


I'd also like to thank you for bumping this thread up
Earlier, I posted a photo of a second set of grips that I got with the stag; well I finally got something I felt they belonged on at this weekend's gun show.

Regards,
Greg

[Bawanna]

Perfect home for them. Didn't know Ruger made a rail gun either. Looks nice!

[gb6491]

Perfect home for them. Didn't know Ruger made a rail gun either. Looks nice!

It's a TALO distributor exclusive: https://ruger.com/products/sr1911Sta...eets/6715.html

[Bawanna]

Guess you'll be swapping for a mid/short trigger, know your partial to those rather than the long.

[gb6491]

Guess you'll be swapping for a mid/short trigger, know your partial to those rather than the long.

You know me too well Colonel.

[Alfonse]

I put slim bushings on the bottom and that fixed that!


Regards,
Greg

Greg, would those screws work on an MK or K series? I like the black and they would look great with black G10 grips on my Kahrs.

[gb6491]

Greg, would those screws work on an MK or K series? I like the black and they would look great with black G10 grips on my Kahrs.

Al,
I currently use "regular" 1911 screws that I cut to length for the "hard nylon/plastic OEM grips on my MK9. The screws for the slim bushings I used on my TRP have a slightly different head shape/thickness that makes them sit a little lower in the grip holes, but they work fine otherwise.


Regards,
Greg

[Bawanna]

Most of the slim bushing screws I've used are shaped similar to that. Would be nice to find regular size 1911 screws with the head like that.
Person wouldn't have to cut the screw hole quite as deep for the head. More strength left in the wood.