Proper prep of a new kahr

[deanp1964]

this is good chit

thanks

[kahrinca]

Inquiry to Jocko or other poster

Here are some helpful suggestions to set your new kahr up before heading to the range as compiled by Jocko, with the help of the forum members.



Proper prep of a new Kahr


Here are some helpful suggestions to set your new Kahr up before heading to the range, as compiled by Jocko, with the help of the forum members.

...

#2. ....Take that slide off and look for the little hole in the bottom of the slide. That is your striker channel clean out hole. Insert your spray cleaner nozzle in there and spray away. Fluids will come out both ends.

Now, with one finger, pull back on the striker at the back of the slide and continue to spray in that hole and also spray clean from that breech hole also. You have now cleaned that striker channel without disassembly. DO NOT OIL THE STRIKER CHANNEL. Refer to the Kahr Tech section. The 2nd sticky down is KAHR LUBE DIAGRAM. Point #9 shows the clean out hole and this is the best lube chart for any semi auto to.

...

Jocko-
I have a CW9.

I'm really appreciative for the tip in #2, above, But I'm not quite sure what is meant in the second paragraph of it, starting with "Now, with one finger..."

I've just sprayed cleaner in the little round hole (described as the "striker channel clean out hole") and I've pressed down and forward on the striker channel safety and pushed the adjoining doodad and the little striker 'pin' goes out on the face, I guess, and I've continued to spray the hole that way, too. I then return the striker pin to be flush, which is the way it's supposed to remain for safety purposes, and according to the manual.

Question:But should I spray cleaner in the exposed compartment area containing the tiny spring also?

Question: And what is meant by spray clean in the 'breech hole' also?

regards,
kahrinca

[Bawanna]

Jocko-
I have a CW9.

I'm really appreciative for the tip in #2, above, But I'm not quite sure what is meant in the second paragraph of it, starting with "Now, with one finger..."

I've just sprayed cleaner in the little round hole (described as the "striker channel clean out hole") and I've pressed down and forward on the striker channel safety and pushed the adjoining doodad and the little striker 'pin' goes out on the face, I guess, and I've continued to spray the hole that way, too. I then return the striker pin to be flush, which is the way it's supposed to remain for safety purposes, and according to the manual.

Question:But should I spray cleaner in the exposed compartment area containing the tiny spring also?

Question: And what is meant by spray clean in the 'breech hole' also?

regards,
kahrinca

Jocko's out of country on assignment but to me it sounds like you did it. No need to spray on the spring part that you can see. By pushing down the striker drop safety and moving the striker forward your allowing the cleaner to go back and actually blow stuff out both ends, a more thorough clean job.

[getsome]

Hi kahrinca, Jocko is away for a couple of weeks (probably in jail, who knows) anyway I will try to answer your questions...First if you are not already wearing safety glasses when you do this put some on...That spray cleaner really hurts when you spray it in your eye..(ask me how I know that...)

Anyway since you found the clean out hole just put the nozzle in there and spray away...If you take your finger and push the striker towards the breach of the slide while spraying it will get into more area...When he said to spray into the breach hole that is the hole in the slide where the striker/firing pin comes out and hits the bullet primer when you pull the trigger...

Basically just spray the crap out of everything on the slide and really spray the clean out hole real good...Jocko likes the 3M brand of non chlorinated brake cleaner from NAPA because it has a very powerful spray pressure but rubber gloves should be worn and safety glasses...I use spray electronic cleaner because it doesn't smell so bad but use whatever you want so long as it's non chlorinated and plastic safe...

DO NOT OIL the striker hole and only use a drop of good gun oil in the areas detailed in the lube chart and you will be good to go...Good luck and welcome to Kahrtalk....

[getsome]

Dang it Bawanna, you got the drop on me again...When will I learn that you are the fastest gun in the west...

[kahrinca]

Thanks, Bawanna.

It would never have occurred to me about the 'striker channel cleanout hole' and spraying non-chlor brake cleaner in it, though I have used such in the past for degreasing and cleaning my other guns.

I would never do a detail strip of the slide, because once I downloaded the instructions, I thought, too easy for ME to mess up.

I've shot over 500-700 rounds in my CW9, and have had it for a couple of years-I just added a CT LaserGuard and that's renewed my interest in getting it up to snuff.

I am surprised that even the original lube chart, which I thought was a 'bit much' (but apparently not so) makes no mention of this apparently helpful cleaning tip...

There was quite a bit of dirt and grime that came out the holes last night when I did the spray cleaning procedure...

[kahrinca]

Getsome-
If I understand correctly, the 'breech hole' is that tiny hole where the striker pin protrudes ever so slightly when pushing down on the striker safety and manipulating the adjacent doodad (which extends or retracts the striker, correct)? It only extends a fraction of a bit and should be flush for safety prior to reassembly. I gather to not stick the spray cleaner in that hole, correct, but limit the nozzle to the round 'striker channel cleanout hole', correct?

On lubrication, I've decided to go to grease on various parts. I'm using Tetra gun grease on those areas that slide and are subject to pressure, and when I run out of that, I will go with the Auto Zone high temperature grease, which will last a lifetime. In the past, I used Mobil 1 only to lubricate this firearm.

[Bawanna]

Dang it Bawanna, you got the drop on me again...When will I learn that you are the fastest gun in the west...

Yeah but you said it way more better than I did. I just don't like to see folks wait mostly. I'm gonna try to hold back a little and coast some. You done real good, very eloquent.

[Bawanna]

Taking that slide down is really not that difficult. It can be a little intimidating the first time but it's really not tough. Most believe why do it if you don't have to. At the same time it's an excellent way to see what makes thing tick.

There's a thread in the tech section on how to take it down. I'd strongly recommend the little bent coat hanger tool. It's a life saver. If not you might need knee pads to crawl around and look for springs and parts.

If your in doubt work inside a big freezer bag, that way if anything jumps out it won't get away. It's really not tough and if you anticipate the spring and keep it blocked it's a walk in the part. One of those things that once you do it you'll think I was afraid of this simple thing.................

[kahrinca]

Thanks for such prompt responses, guys!

I was beginning to wonder about taking apart the entire slide but would like to avoid it-it now seems with this 'spray cleaning' of the 'striker hole' I can avoid it.

I'm the type who likes to avoid messing with the magazines, also. You know, if it ain't broke, etc. etc.

Indeed, I have done some of my own trigger jobs on S&W firearms, but I attribute that ability to the great Miculek videos. I do see the value in appreciating the 'Zen' in knowing how it all comes together but if there's an easy way such as the spray cleaning I ain't gonna get into messing with the slide internals.

I'm balancing the risks here. I am not in an occupation where I wear a gun all the time, if at all. I ain't gonna worry about it because it is highly unlikely I will ever have to even pull out the weapon, much less fire it. I do know and appreciate that if I knew the internals inside and out it would be more rewarding in owning such a firearm, which I enjoy at the range.

[rogerthedodger]

Just a heads up, I used CRC non-chlorinated brake cleaner on my P380 with LCI(loaded chamber indicater) and it took the red paint off the LCI. Use CRC contact cleaner instead, wont remove paint. It does not bother me without the red paint, but to someone else it might.
Roger

[getsome]

As a side note to the above....Brake cleaner is pretty potent stuff and I ruined the finish on the wood stock on a Ruger 10/22 rifle using it...Its ok for non painted metal and most plastics but not all, I also ruined the black plastic grips from a Walther PPK/S .380 I used to have, they melted and I had to buy new ones before I was able to sell it....I like the electronic cleaner better for that reason and the fact that it doesn't have any odor and is safe for wood finishes and all plastic and can be used inside without she who must be obeyed getting sore at me...

[kahrinca]

I'll make a note of getsome's remarks, above, but already bought some CRC Brakleen at Wal-Mart today.

I'll only use brake cleaner on metal, non-painted parts, and avoid spraying elsewhere-that's what I've done in the past, anyway.

But I did not know about the 'striker hole' method of cleaning the internals on the slide-that's a new one for me.

I have my CZ-75B in .40 back and will check the slide to see if there's one there, and any other autos that I have, too.

Electronic cleaner will lie in the future, unless I can return the Brakleen, but I did see one beside it but chose the Brakleen because it was cheaper. My 'bad'...Cheers,

[Cokeman]

As a side note to the above....Brake cleaner is pretty potent stuff and I ruined the finish on the wood stock on a Ruger 10/22 rifle using it...Its ok for non painted metal and most plastics but not all, I also ruined the black plastic grips from a Walther PPK/S .380 I used to have, they melted and I had to buy new ones before I was able to sell it....I like the electronic cleaner better for that reason and the fact that it doesn't have any odor and is safe for wood finishes and all plastic and can be used inside without she who must be obeyed getting sore at me...

I'm always afraid that it will take the white paint off of my sights or ruin my night sights. Has anyone had these problems?

[OldLincoln]

I used it liberally on my slide but inside. I'm sure some spray must have gotten on the stock front sight with no damage. I've doctored my front sight now making a Mickey Mouse Big Dot. Probably violated both the Big Dot Patent and the Mickey Mouse Trademark, but I can see the front sight now.