very interesting, no way to eliminate that possability either, as we just don't have spare barrels to test out. Odd that a barrel would cause premature slide lock but ur thread kinda disproves that.
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Originally posted by jocko View Post3 things can cause premature slide stop
! thumb hitting the release lever and u just don't know it. Try shooting it left handed to see if it persists.
2. bullets hitting on the inside of the slide stop lever and pre engaging the lever. refer to kahr tech section and propper prepping thread to see how to check this out. a 5 minutes thing to see. ( out of spec slide lock lever, a call to kahr willget a new one in the mail pronto)
3. slide stop lever spring is bent or out of spec, cause dby not putting the slide stop lever back correctly, there is a photo tutorial onve ron kahr tech section under propper preppng thread and also under the cw 45 fixes. again easily fixed, u tweeked it and maybe this will solve it
u just need to eliminate the posabilitys starting with # 1.Originally posted by muggsy View PostI think that we have a Jocko impostor in our midst. I couldn't find one typo or spelling error in his last post. Way to go, Jocko.(Horse head coming my way.)
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hell no need to be of senior status. it is what it is , as u well know. some say I am getting better, must be the new meds. My PM9 has over 34,000+ rounds through it, and runs much better than an illegal trying to get across our border
NRA BENEFACTOR MEMBER
MAY GOD BLESS MUGGSY
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That gritty feel is probably your trigger bar; the top is tapered to make sure it goes into the "in battery" notch on the inside bottom of the slide on the right side rear "Notice how I got four coordinates in three dimensional space." Anyway, my trigger bar was running so close to the frame that only about 1/4 of the available bearing surface was contacting the slide and it began wearing away prematurely.
To check, remove the recoil spring and barrel from the slide and the side-plate from the frame. Put the slide on the frame and rack it back and forth, that gritty feeling should be even more obvious without springs. Next, hold the trigger bar down away from the slide while racking. If the gritty feeling goes away you have just identified its location.
I used some sturdy needle nose pliers padded with duct tape to bend that contact point out ever so slightly right below the taper so it rides fully on the bottom of the slide but still finds the "in battery" notch. Then I took some sandpaper and polished both the bottom of the slide and the top of the trigger bar progressing from 200 through 1000 grit. (Slip a chopstick behind the trigger bar to hold it away from the gun and cover the gun with tape to avoid marring the surface). It's smooth as can be now.
Alternatively, call Kahr to describe your problem and they will probably have you send the gun back and fix it for you. Though I like things that work well out of the box as much as the next guy, I love figuring out little things that I can do to make things work better. Kahr makes a very good product and they stick behind them with excellent service but that doesn't mean little boners can't work their way into production.
Were I to redesign the "out of battery disconnect" mechanism, I would probably leave that part of the trigger bar full thickness and have the notch all the way through the slide for reliability rather than aesthetics. That way minor variations in the shape of the trigger bar wouldn't matter and there would be enough metal making contact to last forever. That's up to Mr. Moon though; it's his design.
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yes it was talked about with photos about a week or so agoa, I think the did some mods to the side of the barrel and not to the top of the chamber, but again, if in doubt, let kahr hav ethe barrel back, let them do the mod instead of u, that way they cannot later on say, u voided ur warranty if it gets worse. They deal with this far more than we do and as someone metnion it is all about proper timing and mabe in this case the timing is off a tad, or possable that chamber top cold be off spec just enough to cause some peening and smoothing that area down will never come back again. Proabably gonna be a decision the owner has to make here as to how he is going to further approach this. Kahr says one thing, we (some) are saying another, many here are saying it is OK, just shoot it. I can see where maybe we have just confused the owner more than helped him... My PM9 has over 34,000+ rounds through it, and runs much better than an illegal trying to get across our border
NRA BENEFACTOR MEMBER
MAY GOD BLESS MUGGSY
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no sh-t
Originally posted by GROTMAN View PostMuggsy.. there is no Jocko imposter..proper only has one r..just sayin. My PM9 has over 34,000+ rounds through it, and runs much better than an illegal trying to get across our border
NRA BENEFACTOR MEMBER
MAY GOD BLESS MUGGSY
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no apology needed
Originally posted by GROTMAN View PostOops..meant only one "p"..now i have to learn how to spell humble. My PM9 has over 34,000+ rounds through it, and runs much better than an illegal trying to get across our border
NRA BENEFACTOR MEMBER
MAY GOD BLESS MUGGSY
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Originally posted by ripley16 View PostProbably your thumb is the culprit. Modify your grip and/ or have someone else shoot the gun. Shoot some rounds one handed. I bet that solves the problem. That tiny little spring holds the follower down pretty tightly in normal situations.
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Originally posted by jocko View Postvery interesting, no way to eliminate that possability either, as we just don't have spare barrels to test out. Odd that a barrel would cause premature slide lock but ur thread kinda disproves that.
:40:
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this will tell you if the barrel is sticking. Mine did this, sent back to kahr, they ground down the barrel, no more sticking...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gr6Gxg14SGACM9 purchased 3/2012: 250 rounds PMC, 20 rounds Federal HST, 0 malfunctions so far :33:
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