Sight replacement on PM9 - DIY or send to Kahr Arms?

[Texas48]

Dovetailed sights are made to be removed and installed. It is not especially hard to replace the sights on a PM9. Put masking tape on the slide and lock it into a vice, unless you have a sight tool. Use non-marking punches of brass, aluminum or plastic and apply them to the base of the sight, not the upper portion. My secret sauce solution is to lubricate the dovetail. I like sharpening stone oil, but any penetrating oil will do or you can mix some hand dishwashing detergent, like Dawn, with water. Tilt the gun so that lubricant can get beneath the sight, which may or may not happen, and lubricate the dovetail in the direction the sight will move. Work from left to right to remove the sights and install them from right to left.

If a new sight will not go into the dovetail by hand about half way, you should sand the bottom of the sight. An easy way to do this is by placing sand paper on a very flat surface and rubbing the sight back and forth sideways, as it will enter the dovetail, to remove some material. Try it in the dovetail often until it will enter halfway. If not, continue sanding and try again. Eventually, it will fit and you should use the punch to finish. As a novice, you should use very fine grit of 1000 or higher. Go slowly and carefully, making sure the sight bottom is flat on the sand paper.
You should know where the sights should be set. The front sight, which is usually weaker, should be centered and the rear should be set wherever you have determined it should be to have the point of impact where you want it. I do not use thread locking compounds until I am sure the sights are aligned properly. When installed, rinse the sights with water or alcohol to remove the lubricant. I recommend shooting the gun before using the threadlocker. Once you determine the sights are set properly, you can consider some Loctite or something similar. While most use Loctite on the underside of the sights, I prefer to use it on the sides of the dovetail as I think it would be easier to remove later, if needed for adjustment or whatever.
If you think you will want to do this on other pistols, it might make sense to buy a sight pusher. I have one and use it when it fits. These make the process easier, but should be used with caution to avoid scarring the finish. Read the directions. Again, push on the sight bases within the dovetails, not the upper portions of the sights. Be especially careful with the weaker front sight. Make sure the tool part that pushes the sight is free to move the sight and not in line to touch the dovetail. Again, use the lubrication and installation process discussed above. Go slowly and check constantly. There will sometimes be a popping sound when the sight begins to move. This does not indicate a problem.
Others will likely have different opinions and you should consider them. This has always worked for me and I have never damaged anything. If this works for you, please let us know. If this does not work, just forget you ever heard of us. ;^D

finpro gave solid recommendations. I have used Kroil Penetrating oil to lubricate the dovetail. Let the oil set for about an hour and I have used a sight pusher to get the originals off. They are press fit on according to Kahr. I have also used a flattened brass rod and a gunsmith hammer to adjust sights. Trick is too go slow, once they start to move they will come out.

[gb6491]

Yep, there's masking tape on that slide

I have two magnetic vice jaw pads made of aluminum that I use quite a bit. They originally had some thin rubber on them, but that was quickly replaced with leather (as in the photos above).
I also have some pads that are just cut pieces of 90 degree aluminum angle stock (sitting on top of the vise in this photo):

I keep meaning to cut another pair and put leather on them, but never seem to get around to it.
Regards,
Greg

[pist]

I finally corrected the "DIJ" in the title to "DIY". I really should stop having wine for lunch.

And to answer my own question, yes the dovetail very clearly widens from left to right. I should have looked before asking, since now that I have, it's obvious to the naked eye.

I see some "universal sight tools" like this highly-rated one which would force you to push on the upper parts of the sights, since the pusher block is way too wide to fit in the dovetail. Of course, I'm avoiding that one.

[Ed M]

This one works great for doing Kahr sights.

https://www.amazon.com/Handgun-pushe...s=sight+pusher

I see one similar on Greg's bench...

Bought a piece of 1/8 x 3/4 x 48" aluminum bar stock at Home Depot, and cut a piece just smaller in width to the slide. I shim it up using brass shim stock to get the right height, and cover the blocks on either side of the slide with Bodyguard paint protective clear film. That stuff is self adhesive and thick enough to protect the firearm's finish without being too soft. A small piece cut to fit the sight protects it as well.

Clamped in a vise, this setup has never failed to easily push in/out any sight I've tried - except a CZ front sight. They slide out and in from the front.

I've done plenty of sight installations using this pusher - it's paid for itself MANY times over.

[Bawanna]

Yep, there's masking tape on that slide

I have two magnetic vice jaw pads made of aluminum that I use quite a bit. They originally had some thin rubber on them, but that was quickly replaced with leather (as in the photos above).
I also have some pads that are just cut pieces of 90 degree aluminum angle stock (sitting on top of the vise in this photo):

I keep meaning to cut another pair and put leather on them, but never seem to get around to it.
Regards,
Greg

I love the anvil on your bench. Bet that's right handy from time to time. I have a couple chunks of axle, one about 2 1/2'' and the other maybe 1 3/4 or 2''. Pretty handy but your anvil is better.
I need to take a picture of my hammer. I used large until I watched the sight man work. I broke a tritium sight trying to install it and took it down to him. His first question was how big a hammer did I use. I saw his and said a lot bigger than that.
I registered on a Geiger Counter which probably explains why I am how I am.

[pist]

https://www.amazon.com/Handgun-pushe...s=sight+pusher
I see one similar on Greg's bench...

Thanks. Shortly after my last post, I happened to order the same one, with the additional block sets. I figured for $10 more, I'd be glad I did should I ever need them in the future.

I will post again to say how it went, although I have no idea when I will actually install the sights, since I'm now second-guessing my choice in sights.

[pist]

The front sight, which is usually weaker, should be centered and the rear should be set wherever you have determined it should be to have the point of impact where you want it. I do not use thread locking compounds until I am sure the sights are aligned properly. When installed, rinse the sights with water or alcohol to remove the lubricant. I recommend shooting the gun before using the threadlocker. Once you determine the sights are set properly, you can consider some Loctite or something similar. While most use Loctite on the underside of the sights, I prefer to use it on the sides of the dovetail as I think it would be easier to remove later, if needed for adjustment or whatever.

OK, I've got my sight pusher in hand, and my sights are on order.

I'm embarrassed to ask, but this does refer to adding Loctite with the sights installed, right? Just let it bleed into the dovetail? (As opposed to, say, marking where the rear sight is aligned, removing it, and installing it with Loctite already in place, re-aligning to the previous marking so the sight is in its proper location.) I didn't think the Loctite would be able to work its way in there.

It seems like I could just go ahead and use Loctite straight away with the front sight, as long as I don't take too long getting it centered.

And while I'm on a roll here, is blue Loctite sufficient? I don't want to use red Loctite now only to find that I'd need to use a hydraulic press later on to get the sights out again, should I ever want to.

The Williams FireSights rear sight for Kahr handguns does have a set screw, so there's that. I'm sort of expecting the rear sight to slide in alarmingly easily.

[gb6491]

I find dovetail sights most often need some fitting for installation. If I get a tight fit, I usually forgo using any Loctite.
If I do you use it, it's put on after I've verified that the sights are positioned correctly (read range trip). For this I use Loctite 609 and let it weep in.
Regards,
Greg

[finpro]

I recommend waiting until you are satisfied with your results before using Loctite, after shooting your PM9. For normal civilian carry, sights are not under great stress. I have stopped using Loctite under the sights and have been using it on the sides of the dovetails in order to make it easier to remove the Loctite to adjust or remove the sight later. Full disclosure: I am not very concerned about how a concealed handgun looks. What I suggest looks a bit sloppier, so you should consider this. When you are happy with your result, you can place Loctite under the sight, if you still want to do so. I like using grades of Loctite or substitutes which allow later adjustment.

[jg rider]

Hey Greg,
I seem to notice you're using felt pads as vise jaws. I didn't think there were many who knew about using them. But what do I know.
Anyway I've used some one piece 6"w x 12"l x 1/2" thick pads as jaws that wrapped around the bottom of my vises in case a piece slipped out of the jaws.

Question: I wore out my last piece of felt. If you're using the same, do you know where I can by some more. I'm again looking or 1/2" pieces

Thanks for reading this,
John

OOPS ! I just finished reading that you use leather pieces.
Sorry

[jg rider]

Yep, there's masking tape on that slide

I have two magnetic vice jaw pads made of aluminum that I use quite a bit. They originally had some thin rubber on them, but that was quickly replaced with leather (as in the photos above).
I also have some pads that are just cut pieces of 90 degree aluminum angle stock (sitting on top of the vise in this photo):

I keep meaning to cut another pair and put leather on them, but never seem to get around to it.
Regards,
Greg

I noticed the sledge hammers, but where are the chisels ?

[KCAutoBob]

A small addition to an already great deal of excellent information- When I had a really tight front sight to remove, I waited until I got some brass key stock purchased online. I bought a foot of brass 1/4" and 1/2" key stock. Don't remember where, but there are companies who sell such stuff, and actually at reasonable prices. Google it, or whatever works for you. I used the 1/4" brass stock which has a square profile (from the end) and filed it, as necessary, to fit into the dovetail as neatly and tightly as possible against the base of the sight to prevent the wrong sort of movement when tapped with a hammer. Worked good for me.

[TXscooterguy]

A small addition to an already great deal of excellent information- When I had a really tight front sight to remove, I waited until I got some brass key stock purchased online. I bought a foot of brass 1/4" and 1/2" key stock. Don't remember where, but there are companies who sell such stuff, and actually at reasonable prices. Google it, or whatever works for you. I used the 1/4" brass stock which has a square profile (from the end) and filed it, as necessary, to fit into the dovetail as neatly and tightly as possible against the base of the sight to prevent the wrong sort of movement when tapped with a hammer. Worked good for me.

I've used this tool with good results.

https://dawsonprecision.com/dawson-p...llation-tools/