Using Speedloaders with J-frame?

[JFootin]

Thanks, everyone.

I found a few threads regarding this issue over on the S&W forum. The issue of the standard boot grips binding is a universal problem that S&W and Unkle Mike's have chosen to ignore for years. Interestingly, the two aftermarket grips I have been considering will clear the speedloaders:

• The Altamont Boot Grips
• The Pachmayr Compac Rubber Grips

Slightly more people prefer the Safariland Comp-1 over the HKS because of the relative ease of releasing the bullets, but it is close. And there were several recommendations for using speed strips instead. I am going to get a couple of speed strips.

So it looks like I am on the right track for grips and loaders.

[kayl]

I carry speed strips, but I load them like this:

OO--OO (Round, Round, Empty, Empty, Round, Round)

[JFootin]

Here is a photo of the holster that James Dean made for me, now completed. I don't have it in hand, yet, but I am beside myself! James studied my ideas and several pictures of holsters illustrating ideas I wanted to incorporate into this custom holster, and then he hit the nail on the head with this beauty! Exactly what I envisioned! I have been bragging about James's artistry in leather, but this is a whole other area of his genius - the ability to translate a customer's visions perfectly into reality. Check out this beauty designed to carry my S&W 638 Airweight AIWB at 11:00.



The gun is at a local gunsmith's getting a trigger job. I will be posting more photos and reviews of the gun and holster once I get them both in hand, on my belt and I can get out to the range to put some rounds through the gun.

[mr surveyor]

I carry one speed strip loaded as described above, with the exception that during snake season (now in progress) the first two rounds are shotshells that find their way into the chamber when I'm in certain locations. Can't seem to find a speed loader that will cooperate with my SP101 and factory grips (and I'm not changing grips). The SP101 cylinder doesn't clear the frame quite as much as my S&W's did, and I ain't changing guns again either

I carry too much other stuff to try to find a pocket to carry something as bulky as speed loaders anyway.

[les strat]

Biacnchi speed strrips here too. For all my centerfire revolvers. You can get really fast with them. They loosen up a bit, but still hold each round securely. I leave my empty one closest to the tab for my j frame. You just have to practice it. Most of it is how you hold the gun and secure the cylinder.

Cheap to try too.

[jg rider]

This will work with a speed loader plus give a better cushion and hold over the boot grips. I made another set for my S&W 342 Titanium, what a hand and middle finger saver.

[muggsy]

Look at this product. I am not sure if they will work with your grips but they work great with my 686ssr. I would give them a call. Generally I have found you need thinner grips with any round speedloader and a J frame. I use speed strips because they are easy to carry in your back pocket.

http://www.5starfirearms.com/

They sure rattle a lot.

[bonjorno2]

I am with thunder on this one, speed strips are the way to go... trust me chances are good if you need more than 5 rounds your screwed anyways!

these vz grips are great, they give me plenty of clearance when i use speedloaders at the range and give me a amazing grip on the pistol.

[JFootin]

Thanks everyone for all the advice! I haven't yet, but I'm going to get a speed strip or 2. I think that saying is true: "trust me chances are good if you need more than 5 rounds your screwed anyways!" So I may carry the speed strip(s) in my center console and keep the 2 speed loaders in my desk drawer. Not going to carry spares on me. I am very crippled and walk using a 4 wheeled walker which I have to hold onto for balance, so 5 that go bang every time while holding the walker with my weak hand. If that's not enough, see ya!

I got the checkered rosewood Altamont wood grips, and some small, thin ones in smooth "Blackwood." I still plan on getting the Pachmayr Compac grips.

I'll be posting some pics when I get the gun back from the gunsmith.

[MW surveyor]

jFootin - They sell them by the pair for about $6.00 or so in my local gun shop(s).

I can reload my 638 and my Ruger SP101 pretty fast with them using the 00xx00 method. That's 2 rounds, 2 blank, 2 rounds. Trying to load five really slows the process down.

BTW - using 158 grain +P 38 Special semi jacketed hollow points.

[JFootin]

jFootin - They sell them by the pair for about $6.00 or so in my local gun shop(s).

I can reload my 638 and my Ruger SP101 pretty fast with them using the 00xx00 method. That's 2 rounds, 2 blank, 2 rounds. Trying to load five really slows the process down.

BTW - using 158 grain +P 38 Special semi jacketed hollow points.

I wondered when you first posted 00xx00, but now I understand it is for speed. I'll experiment with it when I pick some up.

[mr surveyor]

jFootin - They sell them by the pair for about $6.00 or so in my local gun shop(s).

I can reload my 638 and my Ruger SP101 pretty fast with them using the 00xx00 method. That's 2 rounds, 2 blank, 2 rounds. Trying to load five really slows the process down.

BTW - using 158 grain +P 38 Special semi jacketed hollow points.

that is an excellent suggestion

not bad thinking for a "surveyor"

[Barth]

I bought 2 Safariland Comp-1 speedloaders to use with my new S&W 638. I got this brand because they automatically release the bullets as soon as you get them all the way in, without having to twist the knob. Well, the standard Uncle Mike's Boot Grip interferes with the speedloader. I have to jiggle and force it for a minute or more to get it to straiten up and get the rest of the way in there where it will release the bullets, and it is scarring up the grip.

I don't understand this. Surely S&W, Uncle Mike's and Safariland should have these designs compatible with each other. But about every accessory grip I look at, whether plastic, rubber or wood, is shaped exactly the same in that area, extending just a few mm too far into the space needed to allign the speedloader and insert it.

Why is this?

Why are the grips—all of them—not relieved more in that area?

And why does Safariland sell a product that they know damn well won't work with the gun it is made for?

Does this happen with HKS speedloaders, too? Are they a bit more compact or something?

The only thing it looks like I can do is use a Dremmel-like-tool to relieve the left grip panel where needed. Or get a set of the small classic grips.

But won't I remove the finish if I try to relieve that area on a wood grip?

I'm perplexed. J-frame owners, please help me.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/842...t-rubber-black
I have three HKS speed loaders and they work fine with Hogue Bantam Grips.
I use a camera case to hold three of them LOL!


That said I never use them.
Too bulky.
Prefer Bianchi Speed Strips.
I also have 2 Galco 2x2x2 belt pouches.
One doesn't snap.
The other is perfect and I love it.
But it was on 1/2 clearance.
Would not recommend them at full price.

BTW My Pachmayr Compac Grips on my 640-1 will not accept speed loaders.

[JFootin]

Thanks, Barth. Part of the problem with the Safariland loaders is that you have to line it up and push it way in before it contacts the ejector and releases the bullets. I haven't tried the HKS, but as I understand it you get the bullets started in and twist the knob to release them. Maybe they are a little smaller around than the Safariland ones, though they don't look smaller in pics.

I have the Hogue Bantam grip, which I will try on the gun when I get it back from the gunsmith Monday. He just called and said the gun is finished. He has been refining a trigger job to get the DA pull down where I want it. He said he now has the DA pull on my 638 down to 4.25 pounds! Said he's already done almost a dozen trigger jobs on J-frames this year, but this one is the best he's ever done! Took it out to his range and shot 5 rounds. Went BANG 5 times. Said the dimples on the primers looked just as deep as a stock gun. I should be getting the AIWB holster presented in Post #18, and also a pocket holster, from James Dean next week, too, so I will be able to try the gun and the new holsters out in the next few days.

I KNEW that skilled gunsmiths have been achieving these kind of results with the triggers on S&W revolvers for generations. I am so glad to have found a real, highly skilled and competent gunsmith who can do it, and who is within easy driving distance! And I'm so glad for this timing so I will have a gun to slide into those holsters when I get them! I am one happy gun lover!

[Barth]

He just called and said the gun is finished. He has been refining a trigger job to get the DA pull down where I want it. He said he now has the DA pull on my 638 down to 4.25 pounds!

[/FONT][/LEFT]

Wow!
My 640-1 is 8.5 lbs and the smith told me that's as good as it gets.
He's a conservative guy though.
And he did fit, smooth, round and polish my custom stainless steel combat trigger for me.

It's glassy smooth and I'm very happy too.
Just thinking about porting now though.
She till kicks like a mule! Both my J-frames do.